Trainers and other dog behavior experts urge people to enroll their dogs in group training classes, and with good reason. Group classes are a fine way to teach most dogs basic manners they need to thrive in human society and homes. Puppy classes that include plenty of off-leash playtime are essential for teaching pups bite inhibition, polite play skills, dog-dog communication skills as well as manners. Specialty classes like doggy dancing/canine freestyle, agility, and nose work ramp up the fun factor, and provide additional energy outlets for dogs. And all group classes are excellent opportunities to give dogs much-needed mental workouts, as well as practice in responding to their humans amidst abundant distractions.

How do you and your dog get the most out of dog training classes? Read on for some tips.

• Arrive on time. Better yet, try to get there a few minutes early to give your dog a chance to sniff around and settle into the class environment.
• Bring necessary paperwork on the first day. Classes usually have policies regarding required vaccinations a dog needs to participate. This is for all the student dogs’ safety. If you haven’t submitted vaccination records ahead of time, bring copies to the first class so your dog can join right in the fun.
• Be prepared. Potty your dog before class. Exercise him ahead of time if he tends to bounce off the wall with energy. Bring him to class hungry. If you usually feed him a meal around class time, skip it. Hungry dogs are more motivated to pay attention and train, and class will be full of distractions – other dogs and people with treats (aka human pez dispensers to dogs!). You’ll be glad for the extra bit of motivation.



• Bring plenty of training treats. You’ll need ‘em! Small soft treats work best. Dogs can eat them more quickly than hard dog biscuits, which means you can get in more repetitions of an exercise during class practice time. Small pieces ensure your dog won’t fill up before class is over. Make sure they’re treats your dog really likes, not those you think he “should” like.
• When not to bring your dog. If your dog is in estrus, it’s probably best to leave her at home. Please don’t bring your dog to class when he’s sick. That won’t be any fun for him, and he might get the other dogs sick. Find out about attending a make up class together, or just come to class anyway without Fido. You’ll still get a lot out of class and be able to practice and keep up your dog up to speed.
• Supervise kids. I love it when kids in the family help to train the dog. I don’t love it though when people bring kids to class expecting the instructor to supervise them. If you bring kids to class, please keep an eye on them for their own safety, your own peace of mind, and to minimize disruptions.
• No retractable leashes. They’re bulky, cumbersome and difficult to manage while training your dog, especially for heeling and loose leash walking practice. Instead, use a  flat leash and collar.
• Speaking of collars, a regular flat collar is best for a positive training class. That means, no choke chains, prong, pinch or shock collars. Those devices rely on pain to control dogs, don’t teach dogs what you’d like them to do, and frequently lead to growling, lunging and barking when the poor dog’s on leash. I don’t know about you, but if someone put one of those things on me and started jerking and popping the leash while I was in it (a la Cesar Milan), I’d get growly in no time.
• Banish the cell phone. You’d be surprised how many times students have answered calls and then proceeded to have a full-on conversation in the middle of class. Please, silence cell phones before class. If you must take a call, step outside of class with your dog.
• Smart footwear. Here’s one I bet most folks don’t think about, but you should. Training classes include exercises that require movement and walking around, sometimes at a fast pace. Humans in training class find that their hands are very full during class time. They’re holding a leash, possibly a clicker, dispensing training treats, paying attention to what they’re doing and what their dogs are doing. Flip flops or high heels will make doing training exercises all the more challenging for humans. Your best bet for footwear is a pair that are comfy, with a flat stable no skid sole.
• Pay attention & listen. Need I say more?
• Be responsible for & monitor your dog at all times, especially if you’re in an off-leash class or puppy playgroup.
• Communicate. Does your dog have food allergies or dietary intolerances? Are you having trouble doing an exercise? Did you find the instructions confusing? Instructors try to have 360-degree vision in class, but we can’t notice everything all the time. So please, talk to your instructor. Ask questions.
• Practice, practice, practice. Dog training classes give you the tools to go home and practice you’re your dog. Dogs don’t generalize well, so if you want to really learn something, you’ll need to train him a lot outside of class. Typically, each class sessions builds on the things learned in the previous meeting. Practice between class sessions so you and your dog are ready to move on to whatever’s coming in the next meeting. Practice in as many settings as you can and at different times of day. Practice in short intervals; three to five minutes a few times a day is much more effective and fun for dogs (and humans) than long marathon sessions.

HAVE FUN!

“A rose is a rose is a rose,” wrote Gertrude Stein, but the same isn’t true for dog training classes.

There are classes just for pups, adolescents, or adults; in basic and advanced manners; to improve a particular skill like coming when called or loose leash walking; for shy or fearful dogs; for leash reactive dogs; specialty classes such as tricks, freestyle, agility, rally, nose work and treibball; and more!

With so many classes to choose from, how do you make sure a group training class is the right fit for your dog? Read on for some tips and important considerations.

• Is it a positive training class or an old-school punishment based class? Positive reinforcement training is the only humane effective way to train dogs. It includes reward-based training and clicker training. Punishment-based training relies on force, pain and intimidation to control behavior and may include leash pops, yelling, choke chains, prong and shock collars. Between the two there’s no contest. Positive training is the only way to go if you want your dog to learn most effectively, to enjoy training and to trust you. If you’re not sure what methods will be used, get in touch with the training school or instructor and ask. Better yet, ask to sit in on a class so you can see for yourself.


Off-Leash Puppy Class

• What’s the maximum class size? If you’re new to training, you may want to opt for a smaller class so you and your dog get more individualized attention. (One caveat: No one taking a group dog training class should expect exclusive attention from the instructor – heck, they’re called “group” classes for a reason.)
• What do you want Rover to get out of the class & what does the curriculum cover? This may seem obvious, but surprisingly often, people come to classes with inaccurate expectations about what their dogs will be learning. Class content varies a lot. Basic manners classes typically cover at least sit, down, stand, leash walking, recall (come when called) and stays. Advanced manners classes take these behaviors and more to the next level. Some puppy classes like those offered by Sirius, are held off-leash and include lots of puppy play, which is essential to teaching pups bite inhibition. Other puppy classes are held on-leash and may or may not include off-leash puppy play. Some classes build their curricula around what students most want to learn. Others have set curricula.
• What does Rover need to know before he can take the class? The answer is usually “nothing” for puppy classes, basic manners classes and nose work. Specialty classes like agility, freestyle (doggy dancing), and rally obedience typically require student-dogs to know some basics. Some advanced classes require that dogs have graduated from a particular class at a particular facility, e.g., Sirius Puppy 2 classes are typically open only to graduates of Sirius Puppy 1. If it’s been a long time since Rover practiced behaviors necessary to take the class, bone up with him well before the class starts so he can hit the ground running on Day 1 of class, rather than spend time reviewing and catching up.
• Is Rover fearful or shy? Some dogs are so anxious/fearful that group training classes aren’t for them. Depending on the severity of the dog’s fear, expecting her to train in a group setting is unrealistic and may be downright unfair and unkind. These poor critters are far too upset to eat or learn in a class setting. If your dog is very fearful, private positive training is your best option to help conquer her fears. Classes designed especially for fearful dogs are another option, provided the methods are positive reinforcement-based, and the dog’s fear is not too severe for the class.
• Is Rover leash reactive? Most group classes are conducted with dogs leashed most of the time. If your dog reacts poorly to the sight of other dogs or strangers when he’s on leash, a garden variety group training class isn’t right for him. Instead, enroll him in a special class designed to address this behavior. I’ve seen these classes listed as “Growly Dog”, “Reactive Rover,” and “Control Unleashed.”
• Does Rover display aggression? Dogs that behave aggressively towards strangers, other dogs, or who guard food, toys or owners from dogs or humans may not be suitable for a group class. A dog that barks and lunges at mail carriers but is otherwise comfortable with strangers may be fine in class. A dog that barks and lunges at all male strangers may not be OK in class. When in doubt, check with the instructor to see if the class can accommodate your dog’s behavioral issues.
• What are the general policies regarding student dogs? Most classes have specific policies about dogs that will be accepted. Policies typically address the dog’s age, required vaccinations, whether or not the dog has bitten and injured a human or another dog, and whether student dogs must be spayed or neutered. Informing yourself about these policies ahead of time is the best way to avoid surprises on the first day of class.

Next up, how to get the most out of your dog’s group training class.

January is National Train Your Dog month – a grand kick-off to another year with your best furry friend. If you haven’t heard, positive reinforcement training is one of the best ways to enhance your relationship with Rover.

Relationship: the way in which two or more concepts, objects or people are connected, or the state of being connected.

Some may think true relationships exist only between humans, but we do indeed have relationships with our dogs. Humans provide the things dogs need and want in life, and they depend on us to provide those things. Humans depend on dogs for all kinds of help: as flock guardians and herders on farms and ranches; as protectors of the home and family; as trackers and retrievers in the field; as our eyes, ears, and sometimes, our hands. We look to dogs for much of what we share with other humans – companionship, affection, friendship and a good laugh.

Positive training fosters relationships with dogs on a foundation of clear consistent communication, mutual respect and trust. Thankfully, that’s the kind of relationship I enjoy with my dog; I wouldn’t want it any other way.

When Vinnie first came into my life he was a sweet cuddly pup. Now, nearly 5 years later, he is sweeter, deeply bonded to me (and I to him) and even more affectionate. He trusts me completely. I see it in his eyes when he looks to me in new or uncertain situations. I know it when he leans his body into mine, when he passes by and licks my hand, when he nuzzles his face into my chest or shoulder and waits for me to pet him. Between us there’s a constant dialogue, mostly devoid of words but full of body language. I understand some of his body language, he understands a great deal more of mine, and we communicate very well most of the time. I’m still moved by all of this because his trust and our ability to communicate are things I earned in large part through positive training.

But aside from these warm fuzzies, why train/keep training your dog?

• Because they get rusty, just like we do.
• Because all dogs need mental stimulation every day, and training – practicing known stuff or learning new behaviors or tricks – is an easy way to provide mini mental workouts.
• Because it’s fun for you and your dog – if you’re using positive training that is!
• Because solid training spells more freedom in life for you and your dog, together.
• Because training prevents unwanted behavior and strengthens desirable behavior, which make for a happier more harmonious relationships between humans and dogs.
• Because too many dogs end up in shelters (or worse) every day for behaviors that could easily have been prevented or solved through positive training.
• Because positive training is the only way to fairly and effectively teach your dog how you’d like him to behave.
• Because, as expert trainer Ken Ramirez says, “Training is not a luxury, but a key component to good animal care….Training is about teaching a dog (or any animal) to live in our world safely.”

Need inspiration? Go to APDT’s National Train Your Dog Month website for training tips and links to free webinars and Facebook chats with dog training experts on a wide range of training and behavior issues, from how to teach kids to interact safely with dogs to housetraining issues to introducing dogs and cats safely. Check out the full schedule here and spread the word to anyone you know with a dog, or anyone thinking of adopting one.

Happy 2012 & Happy Training!

Whether you’ve just adopted a puppy or an adult dog, or you’ve had a dog in your family for years, here are 10 great reasons to train your pooch now:

1. Get your dog started (or keep him going) on the right paw. Training will teach him good manners from the get-go, maintain good manners and prevent the development of bad habits and behavior problems.
2. Training provides your dog with one form of mental stimulation, which is vital to his behavioral health. Without sufficient daily mental and physical exercise, dogs get bored. Boredom usually leads to behavior humans don’t like, like boredom barking, and destructive chewing and digging.


Training means more fun & off-leash freedom

3. Training helps your dog control his impulses in everyday life. Dogs are highly impulsive, opportunistic scavengers. Learning and maintaining impulse control makes for a better behaved pet.
4. Training teaches dogs how to learn. This makes future training easier for you and for your dog.
5. The Fun starts now! Positive reinforcement training is reward-based, not punishment-based. Of course rewards are fun (otherwise they wouldn’t be rewards)! When you use reward-based training, in no time your dog will LOVE training. A dog who loves to train and do what you ask…how fab is that?
6. Training may save your dog’s life. In our busy urban environment, you could easily find yourself and your pooch in a situation where you need him to come to you immediately or stay exactly where he is to avoid oncoming traffic or some other hazard. Training snappy recalls, lightning speed sits, and rock solid stays sets you and your dog up for safety and success in emergencies.
7. Training behaviors like stays, settle down, and coming when called means more off-leash freedom for your dog, more peace of mind for you, and more — here’s that word again — fun for you both.
8. Training makes travel and other outings with your dog hassle-free. You and your dog’s quality of life improves when you can take him on vacation or into any dog-friendly café or other establishment.
9. Positive training deepens the bond between you and your dog. You’ll have a relationship built on mutual respect, clear communication and trust, rather than pain, force and intimidation.
10. Positive training builds a more confident dog. Positive training is especially wonderful at building confidence in shy and fearful dogs. Fearful dogs are more likely to bite, so decreasing fear and increasing confidence are good things.

On January 14, 2011, the GGNRA released its Draft Environmental Impact Study (DEIS) and proposal to drastically limit dog-accessible areas throughout the Bay Area. Beloved leash-free areas like Fort Funston will limit unleashed dogs to small patches of land and beach, require dogs to be leashed on most trails, and ban dogs from the majority of the park. Other areas will ban dogs altogether.

Like many Bay Area dog guardians, I’m very upset about the proposed changes. Fort Funston is one of the few spots in the City where dogs can roam leash-free outside the confines and inherent challenges of an enclosed dog park. Funston is a unique option for dogs who don’t do well in cramped and often crowded dog parks. At Funston, dogs get terrific exercise and have plenty of room to negotiate the amount of space between themselves and other dogs.

Fort Funston, aka, Doggy Heaven

The loss of dog-access to GGNRA lands presents negative environmental impacts for Bay Area dogs and humans. Clearly, the restrictions will seriously hurt dogs’ quality of life. Our dogs live in a congested urban environment, frequently in small homes and apartments with no back yards or open space in which to exercise. Adequate off-leash exercise is crucial to dogs’ behavioral wellness and quality of life. A dog that isn’t getting enough exercise is a dog that will in all likelihood develop behavior problems ranging from destructive chewing and boredom barking to anxiety and aggression. Sure, the City has many off-leash dog parks, but they’re already often too crowded to be safe. The GGNRA’s planned restrictions will result in even worse overcrowding, less room for real exercise, and higher risk of dog fights.

The proposed restrictions won’t just harm dogs. The restrictions will result in negative environmental impacts on dog guardians and their neighbors. According to a 2007 estimate, there are 120,000 dogs in San Francisco – more dogs than kids, and approximately 1 dog for every 7 human City residents. A bored dog’s incessant barking disrupts his human family and anyone else within earshot.

Off-leash fun at Ocean Beach

What’s to be done? I have a few suggestions:

Woof up or forever hold your peace! The GGNRA will accept public comment on the Study through April 14, 2011. There are several scheduled meetings to which the public is invited to comment. Written comments can also be submitted to the GGNRA in writing. Go to the GGNRA’s site for information on meetings and to submit comments on the DEIS.

Make sure your comments are of the type that count. It’s not enough to simply protest or voice your displeasure. The comments should be related to the environmental impacts of the proposed dog restrictions, and the potential environmental effects that GGNRA is concerned about. SFDOG.org has put together a detailed and cogent list of suggested comments on the DEIS, and welcomes everyone to incorporate them into written comment letters to the GGNRA.

Contact your local political reps (congressional reps, senators, state senators and in San Francisco, the supervisor for your district), communicate your position on the issue and find out how they plan to address this. Let them know this is an issue that affects all of us, not just a handful of dogs or dog walkers.

Be a dog ambassador. Keep Fifi healthy, up to date on vaccines, and licensed. Pick up poop. Train her to be a model canine citizen on and off-leash. Keep her out of areas designated as dog-free zones, and don’t allow her to chase or disturb wildlife. Snappy recalls, leave its and off-leash stays are essential. So are polite human greetings. Off-leash heeling comes in handy for walking Fifi past distractions and keeping her close to you and out of wildlife protection zones.

Spread the word.
You’d be surprised how many people don’t know about this.

For more information on this important issue, visit www.SFDog.org, www.crissyfielddog.org, and the GGNRA website.

It’s that time again when the new year stretches out shiny, new and full of promise. January also happens to be the APDT’s second annual National Train Your Dog Month (TYDM), which is a wonderful coincidence because training your dog the positive way promises to yield happy results for you and your pooch.

Whether you have a newly adopted dog, a bouncing –off-the-walls adolescent dog, or a senior dog, ongoing positive training is essential for polite doggy behavior. Teach your new dog good manners from the get go, polish up Rover’s rusty recalls and other important behaviors, take a class, or train your dog to do a snazzy trick.

Reward-based training is easy and fun for you and your dog.  And that’s not all. It builds doggy confidence, ensures that your dog will engage more often in behaviors you like, gives her mental exercise and helps prevent boredom.

Love your dog? Then train him!

Who cares if your dog is bored? Well, it’s a good bet that your dog does. Being perpetually bored is no way for a critter to live. (I don’t know about you, but boredom drives me positively bonkers.) Aside from the fact that boredom is a serious drag, a bored doggy is very likely to get into mischief like chewing up your stuff, digging in your houseplants, or barking all the time.  

Problem behavior that could have been prevented or resolved through positive training is one of the leading causes of dogs losing their homes and ending up in shelters. If you love your dog – and I know you do – and you want a long happy life together, a lifetime of positive training is one of the best gifts you can give her and yourself.

Check out the TYDM website for free training tips or to enter this year’s Photo/Video contest. And check out my blog for upcoming posts on useful and cool stuff you can teach your dog.

Happy New Year! Happy Training!

Max, Lola, Roxie, Charlie, Pancake, Izzy, Suki! . . . When it comes to dogs, what’s in a name?

As it turns out, with the right training, quite a bit.

Your dog’s name can be a lot more than just the word you use to refer to him. With the right training, your dog’s name can serve as a cue to look at you. Getting dogs to pay attention to their humans around lots of distractions is one of the most common dog guardians’ challenges. Name training is the first step to teaching your dog to attend to and focus on you no matter where you are. Name training is also a terrific building block for teaching your dog to come to you when you call him.

To train your dog to look at you when you say his name all you need are a clicker and some treats he really likes. Small soft smelly treats work best because your dog can eat them quickly, which helps you get the most mileage out of a training session. Most importantly, use treats that your dog likes. (Every dog is different and just because one dog likes a certain type of treat doesn’t mean another dog will. A student in one of my group training classes had a puppy who would happily train for tiny pieces of apple! I tried giving my dog a piece of apple and he just sniffed it and walked away from me.)

This exercise rewards your dog for looking at you when you say his name, and will teach a newly adopted dog or pup his name if he doesn’t already know it. Your dog learns that looking at you when you say his name is a splendid thing to do because doing so means yummies are coming his way.

1. Do this exercise at home in a room where there’s not a lot of activity.
2. Have your clicker ready and a handful (about 15-20) of treats in one hand held behind your back, or in a treat pouch or in a pocket.
3. Say your dog’s name one time only in a happy upbeat voice. The moment your dog looks at you, click, then give him a treat. Be sure to click first, and then give the treat.
4. If your dog doesn’t look at you, don’t repeat his name. Instead, watch for any response to hearing his name. It might be a slight head turn, a pricking up of his ears, or a tail wag. Click the moment he responds and then feed him a treat.
5. If your dog does absolutely nothing when you say his name, try making kissy noises, clapping your hands, or using jolly talk to get his attention. The moment he responds click, then treat.
6. Continue the exercise until you’ve used up your handful of treats.

Do the exercise a couple of times a day for 2-3 minutes at a time. Practice at different times of day and in different rooms of the house.

It won’t take long for you to notice progress. Small head turns will soon become quite deliberate looks at you. Looks at you will very likely turn into actual approaches. (See what I mean about name training serving as a great foundation for training your dog to come when you call?)

When your dog is reliably looking at you at least 8/10 times when you say his name, kick the exercise up a notch:

• Randomly say your dog’s name when he’s not expecting it. Remember to click when he looks at you, then give him a treat.
• Ask a helper to do the exercise with you so your dog learns to respond to his name when other people say it.
• Gradually increase the level of environmental distractions when you do name training. Enlist a friend or family member to be the distractor. Their simple presence might be enough to distract your dog, or your helper can bounce a ball, squeak a squeaky toy, or jump around and act silly.
• Practice on leash walks and outdoors in an enclosed yard.

When your dog is looking at you 90% of the times that you say his name, treat him less often and phase in real life rewards. Treat him occasionally and randomly for looking at you in response to his name. Reward him at other times with other things he enjoys such as belly scratches, playtime with you, a special toy, or a long-term chewie like a bully stick or tendon. If you stop rewarding him altogether for looking at you, he will eventually stop doing the behavior.

Happy Training!

Training and fun may not seem like obvious bedfellows. I suspect many folks think of training as a bore, drudgery. But not only can training be fun, training and fun should go hand-in-hand. Training with old-school methods – yelling, leash jerks, physical force, shock collars, pain and punishment – is no fun for the dog. Punishment-based training often makes the dog fear its guardian/trainer. Because punishment is hard to do correctly, the dog often has no clear understanding of what behavior is “wrong.” While punishment may teach a dog what not to do, it doesn’t teach the dog what behavior is acceptable. Punishment-based training also undermines confidence and causes fearful and aggressive behavior to worsen.

Positive reinforcement training however, is reward-based; it rewards dogs for behaviors that humans like and want to see more of. By definition, rewards are enjoyable; the dog getting the reward feels good. Given that, positive training done the right way can’t help but be fun. The trainer rewards the dog for desirable behavior with stuff the particular dog finds rewarding. Depending on the dog, the behavior being trained and the environment, rewards range from a variety of yummy food treats, to playtime or socializing with dogs, to a walk in the park, to fun and games with humans. The trainer works at the stage that’s right for the individual dog, a strategy that minimizes dog and human stress and frustration. Instead of shutting behavior down, positive training teaches dogs to do alternative acceptable behaviors that are incompatible with the undesirable behavior.

Dogs trained using positive methods develop a strong positive association to and eagerly anticipate training. Because training activities predict rewards for the dog, he’s happy to train. Training’s not work, it’s the “FUN-tastic Training Game!”

Whether you’re teaching your dog to take a bow or stay on a mat while you cook dinner, positive training done correctly should feel less like work and a lot more like play. If you’re not having fun training your dog probably isn’t either. Common causes of frustration around training include:

The training exercise is too hard for the dog. If the exercise is too difficult, dogs get frustrated and lose interest in training. Backpedal and make the exercise a little easier. Make the exercise harder only when the dog’s getting the behavior right at the current level at least 8/10 times.

The rewards aren’t rewarding to the dog. Dogs are individuals with unique personalities and tastes. Just because Rover likes sweet potato doesn’t mean Fido does too. Find and train with rewards that your dog really likes.

Rewards aren’t sufficiently rewarding to the dog. Vinnie really likes small hard biscuits and will do many tricks in a row at home for one. But when out romping off-leash around lovely distractions like gopher holes and other dogs, if I want him to leave all that alone and come to me, I reward him with something he loves to make it worth his while. Using rewards your dog really loves in more distracting contexts keeps him interested in the Training Game.

It’s time for a break. You and your dog may have been at it too long. Dogs have short attention spans. A few 3-5 minute training sessions scattered throughout your day are far more effective than one long marathon session. If you’re prepared with your training game plan, treats and training setups you need, you’ll get a lot of mileage out of a brief session.

If you and your dog are in the doldrums about training, take an informed break. Check out the resources at www.trainyourdogmonth.com. You’re sure to come away inspired and with practical easy-to-apply information for a new Training Game plan.

If you’ve never trained your dog, there’s no time like the present. If it’s been some time since you trained your dog, brush up on his manners, teach him a new trick, or sign up for a positive training class. Here are a couple of websites dedicated to positive dog training and with loads of free information to get you started:

• The Bay Area’s own www.dogstardaily.com
• Karen Pryor’s Clicker Training site at www.clickertraining.com

Have fun training!

Brrrr! We’ve been having a cold snap here in the San Francisco Bay Area and rain’s expected for the next several days. At times like this, exercising my dog Vinnie outdoors can be a pill. Vinnie is a wet weather wimp. He hates going out in the rain. He’d rather hold it for hours than venture out into a drizzle. We’ve tried putting him in a raincoat and enticing him with meatballs to no avail. I haven’t worked to resolve this as hard as I could have because I haven’t been very motivated. I can’t stand cold wet weather either.

Given our aversion to bad weather, trips to the dog park and hikes on rainy days aren’t an option. Vinnie very reluctantly steps out for a walk just long enough for him to relieve himself, than turns and drags me back home. In the moment I’m glad to head indoors. But unless I find ways to get him some indoor exercise – mental and physical – I know it won’t be long before I have a bundle of over-the-top doggy energy to deal with.

Vinnie can be extremely creative in finding ways to amuse himself. He’s been known to turn the living room into his own agility course, leaping over the couch, racing around the coffee table, and bounding from couch to chair and back again. He might suddenly find Ted our cat, irresistible and will try his darnedest to get Ted to run, sheep style, so Vinnie can give chase. Every passerby or noise outside might be cause for a bark fest, especially when I’m on the phone or deep in a piece of writing.

Making his own rainy day fun

Vin’s creativity on rainy days sparked my own. We now have a list of tried and true indoor activities to keep him busy when the weather isn’t cooperating. These are no substitute for outdoor walks or off-leash exercise but they do serve to burn some of his energy any day, rain or shine. That’s always a good thing!

Tug. No, tug won’t make your dog “aggressive,” and it won’t make him want to control you. There’s zero scientific evidence to support these myths. Tug is a great doggy energy burner, a wonderful opportunity to get in a little impulse control training, and best of all, tug is lots of fun. To build impulse control training into tug games, ask your dog to sit or do any other behavior for the reward of you offering the tug toy. (Watch for a longer post on safe smart tug play soon.)

Hide and seek. If your dog has learned to stay while you’re out of sight, and if he comes when you call him, combine the two behaviors into hide and seek games. Ask your dog to stay as you hide in another room or behind a large piece of furniture. Then call him to come. Reward him with lots of praise and a yummy treat when he finds you.

Even if your dog’s stays and recalls aren’t yet solid, you can play this game with your dog and other people. As one person distracts the dog, the other person hides and then calls the dog’s name in a happy upbeat voice. As the dog scurries to find the hider, the other person hides. As soon as the dog finds the first hidden person and claims his reward, the second person calls the dog’s name. In no time, your dog will be racing around the house to seek out hidden humans.

Train new tricks. Pick a trick, any trick, get a bag of treats and start training your dog! Just five minutes at time, several times a day, are a fun easy way to get that doggy brain churning. Teach your dog to retrieve an old credit card to the cue, “Let’s go shopping.” Teach him to take a bow or to weave through your legs. The sky’s the limit.

Rocket recalls. Get some treats your dog loves and at least one more person to play this game. Stand about 10-15 feet apart and take turns calling your dog to come. Reward him when he does. Gradually increase the distance between the people and work up to positioning the people in different rooms of your home. How fast can you get that canine rocket to run those recalls?

Food puzzle toys. There are all sorts of food puzzle toys on the market in which you can stuff food treats. Your dog has to use his brains and sometimes his brawn to get the food out. Kong and Premier Pet Products make great food puzzle toys. Vin’s new favorite is the Tricky Treat Ball. He goes positively bananas when he sees that thing, so much so we have to keep it hidden when not in use.

For added fun, try tying a food stuffed Kong in an old sock, or hiding the toy in a room so your dog can have the pleasure of hunting it down.

Early Recycling Fun

Recycling helper. I need to think of a better name for this one. My husband came up with it shortly after we adopted puppy Vinnie, who made it known on Day 1 that he had a thing for shredding cardboard and paper. Use old egg cartons, cereal boxes or any cardboard box. Make sure no wires or staples are attached to the box. Put a few treats or a food stuffed Kong into the cardboard container. Use masking tape to tape the box shut, then let your dog have at it. He’ll have some dissection fun, burn some energy, and your recycling items will be broken down quite conveniently.

Do you have some favorite indoor canine games? Please share them with us in a comment.

The other day as Vinnie and I waited to cross the street, an out-of-breath woman caught up to us. She had an exasperated look on her face and no wonder. She’d been hauled to the corner by Mindy, her medium-sized doe-eyed retriever mix.

“She’s so strong and I just haven’t had time to teach her to heel,” the woman said. She was thinking of outfitting Mindy in a prong collar, hoping that would curb the leash-pulling.

I’m not in the habit of offering unsolicited advice but I couldn’t bear the thought of metal prongs digging into Mindy’s soft neck. Actually, I don’t like the idea of prong, choke or pinch collars on any dog. Those devices use pain and force to control dogs, can cause serious injuries to doggy tracheas, can create on-leash behavior problems, and aren’t necessary, as I’ll explain shortly.

I understand what a pain it is when a dog drags you down the street. Many an untrained dog has done the same to me. And no doubt about it, teaching a dog to walk politely on leash can take lots of time, consistent practice and patience. This is especially so if the dog has a long history of maniacal pulling.

Fortunately, there’s a far better, safer and kinder way to walk your dog without him behaving like an Iditarod contestant. As I told Mindy’s person that day on the sidewalk, an anti-pull front-clip harness stops most dogs from pulling on leash.

Traditional harnesses are designed so that the leash attaches to a ring on the dog’s back. Anti-pull harnesses are different. They’re designed for the leash to clip to a ring positioned in the middle of the dog’s chest, hence the name, “front-clip” harness.

Like many other species dogs have a built-in opposition reflex. Very simply, this means that dogs naturally and automatically pull/push in the opposite direction of anything that’s pulling/pushing them. Pulling back on a dog’s leash or walking him on a traditional harness activates the opposition reflex and causes the dog to pull or forge ahead sled-dgo style. Front-clip harnesses use the opposition reflex to everyone’s advantage. Leash pressure if any, comes from the dog’s front and so rather than pulling ahead, the dog automatically pulls/leans slightly backwards.

Front-clip harnesses are my favorite piece of doggy gear. I always suggest using them to students in dog training classes and to private clients. Even when people do have the time and interest in training their dogs to walk on a loose-leash, walking the dogs on front-clip harnesses is the wisest choice in the interim to prevent sled-dog style walking. When fitted properly front-clip (and other) harnesses are safer walking gear than a leash and collar. There’s little to no chance the dog can wriggle out of the harness, and if you accidentally yank on a leash attached to a harness, you don’t have to worry about hurting the dog or injuring her trachea.

I can’t tell you how many people have told me that front-clip harnesses solved their dogs’ pulling problems almost immediately. Walking their dogs ceased to be a pavement-pounding wrestling match and became fun and easy again. In fact, lots of folks decide not to bother training their dogs to heel or walk on a loose leash, and opt to walk them always in front-clip harnesses instead.

Anti-pull front-clip harnesses that I’ve used and like are listed below. Many local pet stores carry these brands and both are widely available on-line.

Happy Walking!

• SENSE-ible Harness and SENSE-ation Harness, both made by Softtouch Concepts.
• Easy Walk Harness, made by Premier Pet Products.