Trainers and other dog behavior experts urge people to enroll their dogs in group training classes, and with good reason. Group classes are a fine way to teach most dogs basic manners they need to thrive in human society and homes. Puppy classes that include plenty of off-leash playtime are essential for teaching pups bite inhibition, polite play skills, dog-dog communication skills as well as manners. Specialty classes like doggy dancing/canine freestyle, agility, and nose work ramp up the fun factor, and provide additional energy outlets for dogs. And all group classes are excellent opportunities to give dogs much-needed mental workouts, as well as practice in responding to their humans amidst abundant distractions.

How do you and your dog get the most out of dog training classes? Read on for some tips.

• Arrive on time. Better yet, try to get there a few minutes early to give your dog a chance to sniff around and settle into the class environment.
• Bring necessary paperwork on the first day. Classes usually have policies regarding required vaccinations a dog needs to participate. This is for all the student dogs’ safety. If you haven’t submitted vaccination records ahead of time, bring copies to the first class so your dog can join right in the fun.
• Be prepared. Potty your dog before class. Exercise him ahead of time if he tends to bounce off the wall with energy. Bring him to class hungry. If you usually feed him a meal around class time, skip it. Hungry dogs are more motivated to pay attention and train, and class will be full of distractions – other dogs and people with treats (aka human pez dispensers to dogs!). You’ll be glad for the extra bit of motivation.



• Bring plenty of training treats. You’ll need ‘em! Small soft treats work best. Dogs can eat them more quickly than hard dog biscuits, which means you can get in more repetitions of an exercise during class practice time. Small pieces ensure your dog won’t fill up before class is over. Make sure they’re treats your dog really likes, not those you think he “should” like.
• When not to bring your dog. If your dog is in estrus, it’s probably best to leave her at home. Please don’t bring your dog to class when he’s sick. That won’t be any fun for him, and he might get the other dogs sick. Find out about attending a make up class together, or just come to class anyway without Fido. You’ll still get a lot out of class and be able to practice and keep up your dog up to speed.
• Supervise kids. I love it when kids in the family help to train the dog. I don’t love it though when people bring kids to class expecting the instructor to supervise them. If you bring kids to class, please keep an eye on them for their own safety, your own peace of mind, and to minimize disruptions.
• No retractable leashes. They’re bulky, cumbersome and difficult to manage while training your dog, especially for heeling and loose leash walking practice. Instead, use a  flat leash and collar.
• Speaking of collars, a regular flat collar is best for a positive training class. That means, no choke chains, prong, pinch or shock collars. Those devices rely on pain to control dogs, don’t teach dogs what you’d like them to do, and frequently lead to growling, lunging and barking when the poor dog’s on leash. I don’t know about you, but if someone put one of those things on me and started jerking and popping the leash while I was in it (a la Cesar Milan), I’d get growly in no time.
• Banish the cell phone. You’d be surprised how many times students have answered calls and then proceeded to have a full-on conversation in the middle of class. Please, silence cell phones before class. If you must take a call, step outside of class with your dog.
• Smart footwear. Here’s one I bet most folks don’t think about, but you should. Training classes include exercises that require movement and walking around, sometimes at a fast pace. Humans in training class find that their hands are very full during class time. They’re holding a leash, possibly a clicker, dispensing training treats, paying attention to what they’re doing and what their dogs are doing. Flip flops or high heels will make doing training exercises all the more challenging for humans. Your best bet for footwear is a pair that are comfy, with a flat stable no skid sole.
• Pay attention & listen. Need I say more?
• Be responsible for & monitor your dog at all times, especially if you’re in an off-leash class or puppy playgroup.
• Communicate. Does your dog have food allergies or dietary intolerances? Are you having trouble doing an exercise? Did you find the instructions confusing? Instructors try to have 360-degree vision in class, but we can’t notice everything all the time. So please, talk to your instructor. Ask questions.
• Practice, practice, practice. Dog training classes give you the tools to go home and practice you’re your dog. Dogs don’t generalize well, so if you want to really learn something, you’ll need to train him a lot outside of class. Typically, each class sessions builds on the things learned in the previous meeting. Practice between class sessions so you and your dog are ready to move on to whatever’s coming in the next meeting. Practice in as many settings as you can and at different times of day. Practice in short intervals; three to five minutes a few times a day is much more effective and fun for dogs (and humans) than long marathon sessions.

HAVE FUN!

“A rose is a rose is a rose,” wrote Gertrude Stein, but the same isn’t true for dog training classes.

There are classes just for pups, adolescents, or adults; in basic and advanced manners; to improve a particular skill like coming when called or loose leash walking; for shy or fearful dogs; for leash reactive dogs; specialty classes such as tricks, freestyle, agility, rally, nose work and treibball; and more!

With so many classes to choose from, how do you make sure a group training class is the right fit for your dog? Read on for some tips and important considerations.

• Is it a positive training class or an old-school punishment based class? Positive reinforcement training is the only humane effective way to train dogs. It includes reward-based training and clicker training. Punishment-based training relies on force, pain and intimidation to control behavior and may include leash pops, yelling, choke chains, prong and shock collars. Between the two there’s no contest. Positive training is the only way to go if you want your dog to learn most effectively, to enjoy training and to trust you. If you’re not sure what methods will be used, get in touch with the training school or instructor and ask. Better yet, ask to sit in on a class so you can see for yourself.


Off-Leash Puppy Class

• What’s the maximum class size? If you’re new to training, you may want to opt for a smaller class so you and your dog get more individualized attention. (One caveat: No one taking a group dog training class should expect exclusive attention from the instructor – heck, they’re called “group” classes for a reason.)
• What do you want Rover to get out of the class & what does the curriculum cover? This may seem obvious, but surprisingly often, people come to classes with inaccurate expectations about what their dogs will be learning. Class content varies a lot. Basic manners classes typically cover at least sit, down, stand, leash walking, recall (come when called) and stays. Advanced manners classes take these behaviors and more to the next level. Some puppy classes like those offered by Sirius, are held off-leash and include lots of puppy play, which is essential to teaching pups bite inhibition. Other puppy classes are held on-leash and may or may not include off-leash puppy play. Some classes build their curricula around what students most want to learn. Others have set curricula.
• What does Rover need to know before he can take the class? The answer is usually “nothing” for puppy classes, basic manners classes and nose work. Specialty classes like agility, freestyle (doggy dancing), and rally obedience typically require student-dogs to know some basics. Some advanced classes require that dogs have graduated from a particular class at a particular facility, e.g., Sirius Puppy 2 classes are typically open only to graduates of Sirius Puppy 1. If it’s been a long time since Rover practiced behaviors necessary to take the class, bone up with him well before the class starts so he can hit the ground running on Day 1 of class, rather than spend time reviewing and catching up.
• Is Rover fearful or shy? Some dogs are so anxious/fearful that group training classes aren’t for them. Depending on the severity of the dog’s fear, expecting her to train in a group setting is unrealistic and may be downright unfair and unkind. These poor critters are far too upset to eat or learn in a class setting. If your dog is very fearful, private positive training is your best option to help conquer her fears. Classes designed especially for fearful dogs are another option, provided the methods are positive reinforcement-based, and the dog’s fear is not too severe for the class.
• Is Rover leash reactive? Most group classes are conducted with dogs leashed most of the time. If your dog reacts poorly to the sight of other dogs or strangers when he’s on leash, a garden variety group training class isn’t right for him. Instead, enroll him in a special class designed to address this behavior. I’ve seen these classes listed as “Growly Dog”, “Reactive Rover,” and “Control Unleashed.”
• Does Rover display aggression? Dogs that behave aggressively towards strangers, other dogs, or who guard food, toys or owners from dogs or humans may not be suitable for a group class. A dog that barks and lunges at mail carriers but is otherwise comfortable with strangers may be fine in class. A dog that barks and lunges at all male strangers may not be OK in class. When in doubt, check with the instructor to see if the class can accommodate your dog’s behavioral issues.
• What are the general policies regarding student dogs? Most classes have specific policies about dogs that will be accepted. Policies typically address the dog’s age, required vaccinations, whether or not the dog has bitten and injured a human or another dog, and whether student dogs must be spayed or neutered. Informing yourself about these policies ahead of time is the best way to avoid surprises on the first day of class.

Next up, how to get the most out of your dog’s group training class.

January is National Train Your Dog month – a grand kick-off to another year with your best furry friend. If you haven’t heard, positive reinforcement training is one of the best ways to enhance your relationship with Rover.

Relationship: the way in which two or more concepts, objects or people are connected, or the state of being connected.

Some may think true relationships exist only between humans, but we do indeed have relationships with our dogs. Humans provide the things dogs need and want in life, and they depend on us to provide those things. Humans depend on dogs for all kinds of help: as flock guardians and herders on farms and ranches; as protectors of the home and family; as trackers and retrievers in the field; as our eyes, ears, and sometimes, our hands. We look to dogs for much of what we share with other humans – companionship, affection, friendship and a good laugh.

Positive training fosters relationships with dogs on a foundation of clear consistent communication, mutual respect and trust. Thankfully, that’s the kind of relationship I enjoy with my dog; I wouldn’t want it any other way.

When Vinnie first came into my life he was a sweet cuddly pup. Now, nearly 5 years later, he is sweeter, deeply bonded to me (and I to him) and even more affectionate. He trusts me completely. I see it in his eyes when he looks to me in new or uncertain situations. I know it when he leans his body into mine, when he passes by and licks my hand, when he nuzzles his face into my chest or shoulder and waits for me to pet him. Between us there’s a constant dialogue, mostly devoid of words but full of body language. I understand some of his body language, he understands a great deal more of mine, and we communicate very well most of the time. I’m still moved by all of this because his trust and our ability to communicate are things I earned in large part through positive training.

But aside from these warm fuzzies, why train/keep training your dog?

• Because they get rusty, just like we do.
• Because all dogs need mental stimulation every day, and training – practicing known stuff or learning new behaviors or tricks – is an easy way to provide mini mental workouts.
• Because it’s fun for you and your dog – if you’re using positive training that is!
• Because solid training spells more freedom in life for you and your dog, together.
• Because training prevents unwanted behavior and strengthens desirable behavior, which make for a happier more harmonious relationships between humans and dogs.
• Because too many dogs end up in shelters (or worse) every day for behaviors that could easily have been prevented or solved through positive training.
• Because positive training is the only way to fairly and effectively teach your dog how you’d like him to behave.
• Because, as expert trainer Ken Ramirez says, “Training is not a luxury, but a key component to good animal care….Training is about teaching a dog (or any animal) to live in our world safely.”

Need inspiration? Go to APDT’s National Train Your Dog Month website for training tips and links to free webinars and Facebook chats with dog training experts on a wide range of training and behavior issues, from how to teach kids to interact safely with dogs to housetraining issues to introducing dogs and cats safely. Check out the full schedule here and spread the word to anyone you know with a dog, or anyone thinking of adopting one.

Happy 2012 & Happy Training!

How often have you seen this? Someone walks into a dog park, fixates on his smart phone and stays that way, completely oblivious to whatever his dog might be up to.

I know, I know, it’s the uber-tech age and many humans want to be wired most of the time. But taking a dog to a dog park and not monitoring him just isn’t safe. It’s a bit like taking a four year-old child to an amusement park and letting him run amok with no adult supervision.

Dog guardians can go a long way to making sure that dog park experiences are safe and pleasant for humans and canines by keeping these tips in mind:

• You are responsible for Scrappy. Pay close attention at all times to what he’s doing and how other dogs are behaving towards him.
• Avoid doing things that take your attention away from Scrappy, like talking on cell phones, checking email, texting, or getting caught up in conversations with other dog guardians.



• Dog parks aren’t appropriate for dogs that are afraid of or don’t get along well with other dogs. If you don’t know if your dog is a good dog park candidate, or you’d like your dog to become more comfortable with other dogs, consult with a positive reinforcement trainer.
• Scrappy should be completely healthy and up-to-date on his vaccinations whenever he visits the dog park.
• Make sure Scrappy has a reliable recall before taking him to an off-leash park. Park rules typically require that owners have their dogs under “voice control.”
• Take Scrappy’s leash off as soon as he enters the park. This avoids him becoming frustrated by being leashed while other dogs are off-leash. It also avoids turning Scrappy into an easy target for other unleashed dogs.
• Take frequent obedience breaks with Scrappy. Call him to come to you, reward him when he does, and ask him to sit for the reward of resuming play. These breaks help Scrappy keep his impulses in check and are good practice for times when you may need him to come to you in a hurry. Rewarding him with something fabulous when he comes to you at the park teaches him that it pays handsomely to pay attention to and check in with you when he’s playing off-leash.
• Think of yourself as Scrappy’s advocate and ambassador. If he’s is being bullied or harassed by another dog, intervene. Call Scrappy to come to you and move far away from the other dog. Leave the park if the other guardian won’t/can’t get and keep his dog under control.
• If Scrappy is bullying or harassing another dog, step in. The other dog’s guardian may tell you not to worry, that his dog is fine and enjoys playing that way. But bullying and harassing aren’t polite play; they stress the targeted dog and can result in dog fights. If Scrappy won’t stop bullying, it’s best to leave the park.
• If Scrappy gets upset at other dogs who approach him when his toy’s around, don’t bring the toy to the dog park.
• Avoid bringing puppies younger than 4-5 months to dog parks. Some adult dogs are quite intolerant of puppies. Some dogs like to bully pups. It’s easy for puppies to get hurt by adult dogs due to size & strength disparities. A scary negative experience at a dog park could scar a puppy behaviorally and install a fear of other dogs. Instead, take puppies to trainer-supervised puppy playgroups where they can exercise safely off-leash, learn bite inhibition, polite play and dog-dog social skills.
• Avoid bringing young kids to dog parks. It’s just too easy for them to get knocked down or hurt accidentally by romping dogs. Other dogs are a big unknown when it comes to kids. You don’t know if other dogs may be afraid of kids, or if a running, shrieking child will stir up a dog’s prey drive.
• Always pick up after Scrappy.

When Vinnie was an adolescent dog he began to counter surf in earnest. As soon as no one was looking, he’d rear up on his hind legs, put his front paws on the kitchen counter and start sniffing. Somehow he managed to jump and stretch his muzzle farther than we could imagine and in the blink of an eye, he’d help himself to food on the counter. He scored quite a few yummies in this way including a third of a freshly baked pan of cornbread, a handful of cookies, a few hunks of cheese, a piece of chicken, and a burger.

This has got to stop, I thought. But the first order of business wasn’t training. It was management.

Early attempts at counter surfing

Management, a cornerstone of just about every training or behavior modification plan I can think of, means taking steps to prevent the dog from doing the undesirable behavior while training is under way.

When dogs are rewarded for behavior, the behavior becomes stronger in intensity and frequency. In Vinnie’s case, counter surfing had paid off big time in the way of uber-delectable food rewards. The more he scored food from counters, the more likely he would be to raid them in the future. The best laid training plan would have been ineffective as long as he was still able to nab food from counters, even if only occasionally. Preventing him from getting food on counters went a long way to stopping the behavior because it ceased to be rewarding for him.

Here are some common examples of management as compared to training:

Cody loves to rush the front door when guest arrive and jump and slobber all over them.

• Management: Strategic placement of baby gates to prevent Cody from rushing the front door until his greeting manners improve.
• Training: Teach Cody to stay on a mat while guests arrive and enter the home, then to hand target guests to greet them.

Sylvie growls and snarls whenever Rex, the other family dog, approaches her when she’s gnawing on rawhides, bully sticks and bones.

• Management: Separate Sylvie from Rex in another room behind a closed door whenever it’s chewie time.
• Training: Desensitize & countercondition Sylvie to have a positive response to Rex’ approaches when she’s eating chewies or bones.

Fergus pulls nonstop whenever he goes for a leash walk.

• Management: Prevent Fergus from pulling on leash by walking him on a front-clip anti-pull harness.
• Training: Teach Fergus to heel and/or walk on a loose leash.

Vinnie counter surfs in the kitchen every chance he gets.

• Management: Never ever leave food on kitchen counters.
• Training: Teach him to stay on a mat when food’s being prepared and to get down from the counter when asked to do so.

Like good training, effective management requires consistency on the part of dog guardians. Lapses in management enable dogs to engage (again) in undesirable behavior and to self-reward for doing the behavior, which in turn makes the dog more likely to repeat it.

If your dog is doing something you don’t like, think first about how to change the environment to prevent him from engaging in the behavior. Once a solid management plan is in place, train him to do another acceptable behavior instead. When his manners have improved through training, it’s time to relax management.

Many people find that effective management works so well, they don’t do training to address the undesirable behavior. If that works for you and your dog, wonderful.

I see it every day, far more often than I care to remember. Someone walks down the street with a dog on leash, yanking and jerking the leash as they go. The dog pulls ahead of the human, the human responds with a swift sharp jerk on the leash. The dog doesn’t sit when asked to, the human pops the leash. The dog stops to sniff a hydrant, the human yanks the leash.

What’s wrong with this picture? Plenty. Leash popping hurts the dog by tightening collar pressure on the dog’s neck. Over time, leash popping can injure the dog’s trachea. Add a choke chain or prong collar into the mix, and the short term pain is worse, and risk of tracheal damage even higher.

There’s more. Leash pops and other painful/forceful tactics don’t teach your dog want you want him to do. Assuming the timing of the leash pop is spot on – and that’s a big “if” as I’ll explain later – the pop might teach the dog that you don’t want him to pull ahead, but doesn’t teach the dog what you want him to do instead.

Imagine learning to ballroom dance for the very first time. Though the instructor hasn’t spent time teaching you the correct moves, she tells you to go ahead and dance. Every time you make a misstep, she yells, “Wrong,” or worse, slaps you.

Would you learn how to do the foxtrot with that kind of training? Unlikely.

Would you feel confident about dancing? Hard to imagine.

Would you have any desire to dance at all with that sort of “instruction?” Probably not.

What exactly would you like Rover to do when you take him on a leash walk? To maintain a strict heel position, walking glued to your left side? Is it OK if he pulls ahead at all? Is it OK if he lags behind? Is it OK if he walks at your side but 2 -3 feet away from you? Is it OK if he stops and sniffs a tree? It must be incredibly difficult if not impossible for Rover to figure out exactly how and where someone wants him to walk on leash when all he gets is leash pops as feedback.

Let’s talk about timing. Consequences must occur within 1-2 seconds of a dog doing a behavior in order for the dog to connect the two. This basic training principle is true for the timing of rewards and punishments. But humans are notorious for sloppy timing and inconsistency when delivering consequences. Rarely are humans skilled at popping the leash at just right the moment and in time for the dog to understand what behavior is being punished. Given humans’ inconsistency and poor timing, as far as Rover is concerned, sometimes he’s punished for pulling on leash, sometimes he isn’t punished for that, and sometimes he’s punished for walking quite nicely on leash. Confusing and unfair, don’t you think?

Leash pops are good way to build frustration, fear and anxiety in a dog. Wearing the leash becomes a predictor of nasty things for the dog. Depending on when the leash pops occur, the pain may become associated with whatever’s in the vicinity at that moment.

Let’s say Fred jerks the leash whenever Fluffy pulls towards others dogs. The sight of other dogs when Fluffy’s on leash would easily become a predictor of pain for her. Soon Fred may find himself walking a dog who turns into a snarling, lunging, barking mess whenever she sees another dog.

Thankfully, there is a humane effective alternative. Instead of leash popping or giving Rover other forceful, painful and unkind corrections, your time is far better spent training him to do what you want him to do using positive reward-based methods. If you want Rover to maintain a heel position on leash walks, train him to do that and reward him for doing so. If you want Rover to sit at every street corner, train him to do that and reward him for doing so. Behaviors trained in this way become stronger and more frequent, and a lovely side effect of positive training will result. Rover will want to do the things you’ve rewarded him for! I suspect if he could talk, he’d thank you for taking the time to teach him those things.

If your dog’s an ardent leash puller, enroll him in a positive training basic manners class, a leash manners workshop or consult with a qualified positive trainer. No doubt, training leash manners takes lots of time, practice and patience, but in this trainer’s humble opinion, that’s infinitely better than inflicting pain and confusing a dog every time he goes for a walk. To reduce/prevent pulling on leash while your dog is learning better leash manners, read my post, A Better Way to Walk Your Dog.

There’s a pet store in my neighborhood where the kind staff gives all doggy visitors free treats. Naturally it’s one of Vin’s favorite destinations. If he’s within a half-block of the store in any direction he tries to pull towards it. If we walk by the storefront he always wants to go in. I usually give in.

For a long time Vinnie would pull furiously towards the pet store on night time walks especially when his papa stopped at the convenience store a few doors down from the pet place. I worked on training stays with Vin while we waited outside the convenience store but he always had pet store fever and wouldn’t give up on pulling in that direction.

A few months ago I decided to give up that battle. If Vin wanted to go the pet store at night, I let him. I’d stand there silently as he pawed and nosed the door, waiting for him to turn away and leave.

Last week we had a first. During a night time stroll, hubby stopped at the convenience store but Vin did something different. Instead of pulling to the pet store he stayed right next to me waiting for his papa without so much as a glance in the pet store’s direction.

What changed?

Extinction! Extinction means withholding reinforcers for a behavior that’s previously been maintained by reinforcement. The behavior goes away because it no longer works – it’s no longer rewarding to the dog.

Going to the pet store at night had ceased to be rewarding for Vinnie. Every time he’d visited at night the store was closed and the human treat dispensers were away.

Dressing Vin in costumer - a behavior he'd love to extinguish!

Extinction is one method positive trainers use to get rid of unwanted behavior. When used correctly, extinction is a powerful tool. The key is 100% consistency – never rewarding the unwanted behavior.

Vin made a total of 8-12 night visits to the pet store over a period of 4-5 months before his breakthrough. During that time he continued visiting the store during the day and scoring treats. If that hadn’t happened night time trips to the store would have stopped sooner.

Extinction can be used to get rid of behaviors like attention barking, counter surfing, jumping up and mouthing. If you decide to use extinction, make a plan and try to be as specific as possible:

• What behavior do you want to extinguish?
• How is the dog currently being rewarded for the behavior? How has the dog been rewarded in the past for the behavior?
• What’s your plan to remove all reinforcers for that behavior?
• Can you and everyone else in the family realistically commit and follow through with the plan? Is your plan workable for you?

Follow through is crucial. In fact, if you can’t realistically follow through 100% of the time, an extinction plan is a waste of time. Why? If the dog is rewarded even just occasionally for the behavior, it will become more resilient instead of going away!

Follow through needs to continue as long as the dog is doing the behavior, particularly if there’s an extinction burst – a sudden temporary increase in the behavior that sometimes occurs after the start of an extinction plan. Remember, the flare up is normal and temporary, so just dig in and stick to your plan, or you’ll end up with an even stronger more resilient behavior.

Extinction is useful for stopping a variety of behaviors such as attention barking, counter surfing, mouthing and jumping up. My strong preference for getting rid of unwanted behavior is a two-fold strategy: removing all rewards for the undesirable behavior, and training the dog to do another acceptable behavior. (Read more about that here.)

The more I train dogs, the more fearful dogs I encounter. Dogs that are afraid of mailmen, being alone, kids, strangers, other dogs, being handled, traffic noises, novel things they haven’t seen before, things appearing suddenly in the environment . . . the list goes on. One little dog I worked with a few years ago was afraid of so many different things that her guardian was overwhelmed after just a few weeks of life together. She’d asked me for recommendations on books about fearful dogs. How I wish Debbie Jacobs’ A Guide to Living With & Training a Fearful Dog (“Guide”) had been available then!

A committed dog geek, I’m always studying dog behavior and training. I’ve read several books on training fearful dogs but the Guide is unique. Drawing from years of experience living, working with and training her extremely fearful dog Sunny, Debbie cracks a tough nut that’s essential to helping any fearful dog – putting ourselves in their paws as they navigate a world fraught with scary triggers.

As the Guide explains so well, rewiring one’s mindset is vital to helping a fearful dog. Goals and expectations that might be entirely reasonable when training confident well-socialized dogs are often unrealistic for dogs with severe and/or multiple fears and anxieties. Imagining life from a fearful dog’s perspective helps guardians cultivate compassion, empathy and patience both in daily life with the dog and when training to reduce/overcome fears.

Grounded in solid science-based training, the Guide also addresses the significance of the relationship between guardians and dogs. Establishing trust in the guardian is crucial to building the dog’s confidence, reducing fear and anxiety, and changing fearful behavior.

Wonderfully readable and easy to understand, the Guide provides a wealth of concrete information on a host of useful topics including why positive training is a must; the dangers of punishment-based training; suggested treats and rewards; how play can help a fearful dog; how to gauge the dog’s progress; training games and exercises; medications and other calming remedies.

One of the things I like best about the Guide is the discussion of real and sometimes difficult questions that many fearful dog guardians face. Living with and training a fearful dog can be taxing and draining. It may require more of an investment from a guardian than s/he can realistically or wants to make. The Guide takes on these issues with refreshing frankness and lack of judgment considering not only the dog’s well-being but that of the human caretaker.

Debbie Jacobs’ knowledge, candor and humor shine throughout the Guide. Her sound practical advice spells hope for guardians of all dogs, fearful, anxious, and otherwise. For those with shy or fearful dogs, reading and following the Guide will be one of the best things you can do for your dog. I suspect you’ll find yourself returning to its pages over and over again. Thank you Debbie for this gem of a book!

To order the Guide and learn more about Debbie Jacobs, CPDT-KA, CAP, visit her fabulous Fearful Dogs blog at www.fearfuldogs.com.

We just got back from a lovely trip to Mendocino, one of our favorite getaways. It’s spectacular, tranquil, soul-refreshing and best of all, extremely dog friendly.

Here’s a short list of the best doggy fun activities on the Mendocino coast according to my dog Vinnie, a Mendocino-lovin’ mutt if ever there were one.

It was tough narrowing down this list. One of the best things about Mendocino County is the rugged unspoiled beauty that’s everywhere. If you’re a nature lover, a stroll down a country lane will likely become a breathtaking hike for you and a delightful adventure for your dog. Secret beaches abound, many restaurants and cafes welcome dogs, and dog-friendly fun lurks round every bend. That said, here’s Vin’s short list in no particular order:

MacKerricher State Park, Cleone. An enormous park right on the coast with dunes, bluffs, beaches, forest and miles of hiking and horse trails, many of which deposit you on a seemingly endless beach that stretches north for miles. Dramatic ocean views and humbling rock formations may inspire you to hike for hours.

Hiking the Mendocino coast

Cowlick’s Handmade Ice Cream, 250 N. Main St., Fort Bragg. A divine local-made ice cream in scrumptious flavors and hefty portions! All dogs get a free dog-size scoop of vanilla!

Mendocino County Botanical Gardens, 18220 North Highway 1, Fort Bragg. These vast gardens are an ever-changing living homage to the diverse flora of Mendocino County. In early spring, towering rhododendrons awe. In summer, the dahlia gardens dazzle. No matter how often you visit, the gardens are always splendid and never the same twice. You can hike though the gardens all the way to coastal bluffs, heavenly ocean views, and whale spouts. Leashed dogs are welcome throughout the gardens and on the trails. The café near the entrance features Cowlick’s Ice Cream and generously dispenses a free vanilla mini-scoop to all doggy visitors.

Mendocino Headlands State Park, Mendocino. Tourists and locals, humans and canines – everyone loves this park. There may be no other park that puts you smack in the middle of two such odd neighbors – the neat fairytale village to the east and ominous rocky arches, crashing waves and the endless Pacific to the west. Miles of trails hug the coastline and are guaranteed to amaze you.

Frankie’s, 44951 Ukiah Street, Mendocino. This cafe has a cute outdoor patio with tables and chairs where humans and dogs can hang out and enjoy fresh organic pizzas, tasty sandwiches, salads, local beers  and wines, and sometimes, live music. They serve Cowlick’s ice cream here too! (Notice a theme here?)

Noyo Beach, at the end of North Harbor Drive, Fort Bragg. Locals call this the dog beach because it’s officially leash-free. It’s not the prettiest beach but it’s easily accessible and big. The dogs don’t care that the sand isn’t white and powdery. They love this beach. Vinnie likes to romp down the length of the beach, then hike north/northwest up and over the hill onto coastal bluffs for open ocean views.

Chances are you’ve got one in your neighborhood – the backyard dog that seems to bark all day and night. There’s one down the street from me and another a couple of streets away. No matter when I walk by those houses the dogs are barking, one from a garage, the other from a backyard. Bad dogs? No. Bored dogs? Yes! . . and that’s just the tip of the iceberg.As a shelter worker I counseled many people who were considering adopting a dog. I always asked where the dog would be living most of the time. Most people said in the home, at which point I breathed a silent sigh of relief, and began discussing potty-training and house manners training.

Some people said they had garages or backyards that would make “great” homes for a dog, day and night. That answer prompted a different discussion – why backyard/garage living isn’t a good idea.

Dogs are tremendously social critters. That’s one reason they make such great pets and companions. Dogs don’t just like social interaction, they need it. Banishing them to an isolated existence in a backyard or garage is inhumane and bound to result in a cornucopia of unwanted behavior. Dogs living in isolation are lonely, sad, anxious, frustrated and bored out of their minds. When they are permitted to be around humans, the dogs so starved for companionship, their behavior’s out of control.

Dogs - an incredibly social species

Dogs who live in solitary don’t get training in house manners, or if they get it, don’t get a chance to practice those manners on a regular basis. As a result, if and when the dogs are allowed inside, they don’t do well and are again relegated to yard or garage.

It’s a vicious cycle. The dogs’ behavior justifies their banishment to the yard. The longer they live in the yard, the more desperate they are for attention and interaction. The more desperate they are, the worse they behave when around humans. The worse the dogs behave, the less the humans want them in the house.

Dogs in solitary confinement will very likely develop frustration and boredom-based problems such as digging; destructive chewing of outdoor furniture, decks, fences and siding; fence-fighting with people and animals passing by; and excessive barking and howling. Backyard dogs are also at risk for developing obsessive-compulsive behaviors like nonstop tail-chasing, shadow or light chasing, fly snapping, and self-mutilation. In addition, because they’re not around humans or other dogs, they’re often severely undersocialized to dogs, people and the sights and sounds of everyday human life. Undersocialization leads to fearful and aggressive behavior. All of this spells disaster for the dogs. They’re more likely to be surrendered to a shelter and to be euthanized.

Besides the ill effects on behavioral wellness, backyard dogs are at risk for health problems. Dogs may be too hot, too cold, wet with no place to dry out, dehydrated, dirty and matted, or attacked by wild animals. Small dogs have been attacked by raptors. Minor illnesses can become major before anyone notices.

What’s the solution?

• First and foremost, don’t get a dog if you don’t want or aren’t prepared for him to live inside with you.
• Dog need daily mental and physical exercise, and ongoing socialization and training. If you don’t have time for those things, get a low maintenance species of pet (like fish and some reptiles) instead of a dog.
• If you leave your dog outside while you’re at work, don’t tether or chain her up. Doing so severely restricts dogs’ movements and can cause neck injuries, strangulation, and anxiety or frustration-based behavior problems. The dog should have shelter from the elements, s warm dry place to sleep, safe chew toys, and lots of fresh water. The yard should be securely fenced – high enough that she can’t jump over the fence, and deep enough that she can’t dig under it. Opaque fencing reduces the chances of fence-fighting and barrier barking at other dogs and passersby. Bring her in when you come home and let her sleep inside at night. Make sure she gets daily walks and aerobic exercise.
• If you have a backyard/garage dog, you’re missing out on the many benefits of having a dog. Get to know your new best friend and roommate starting now! Move her inside and start a positive training program right away. It’s our responsibility to teach dogs how we want them to behave. Enroll in a basic obedience class or read one of the books suggested below. Be patient and set consistent limits. Don’t expect her to learn how to behave in a human home overnight.
• If you know someone with a backyard/garage dog, try to educate him/her about the dog’s sad predicament. Suggest a local positive training class or one of the books below. (All great reads, they’re loaded with useful information and clear instructions for training basic obedience and preventing and dealing with unwanted behavior.)

The Power of Positive Training, Pat B. Miller
How To Teach A New Dog Old Tricks, Dr. Ian Dunbar
Good Dog 101: Easy Lessons to Train Your Dog the Happy, Healthy Way, Christine Dahl