Trainers and other dog behavior experts urge people to enroll their dogs in group training classes, and with good reason. Group classes are a fine way to teach most dogs basic manners they need to thrive in human society and homes. Puppy classes that include plenty of off-leash playtime are essential for teaching pups bite inhibition, polite play skills, dog-dog communication skills as well as manners. Specialty classes like doggy dancing/canine freestyle, agility, and nose work ramp up the fun factor, and provide additional energy outlets for dogs. And all group classes are excellent opportunities to give dogs much-needed mental workouts, as well as practice in responding to their humans amidst abundant distractions.

How do you and your dog get the most out of dog training classes? Read on for some tips.

• Arrive on time. Better yet, try to get there a few minutes early to give your dog a chance to sniff around and settle into the class environment.
• Bring necessary paperwork on the first day. Classes usually have policies regarding required vaccinations a dog needs to participate. This is for all the student dogs’ safety. If you haven’t submitted vaccination records ahead of time, bring copies to the first class so your dog can join right in the fun.
• Be prepared. Potty your dog before class. Exercise him ahead of time if he tends to bounce off the wall with energy. Bring him to class hungry. If you usually feed him a meal around class time, skip it. Hungry dogs are more motivated to pay attention and train, and class will be full of distractions – other dogs and people with treats (aka human pez dispensers to dogs!). You’ll be glad for the extra bit of motivation.



• Bring plenty of training treats. You’ll need ‘em! Small soft treats work best. Dogs can eat them more quickly than hard dog biscuits, which means you can get in more repetitions of an exercise during class practice time. Small pieces ensure your dog won’t fill up before class is over. Make sure they’re treats your dog really likes, not those you think he “should” like.
• When not to bring your dog. If your dog is in estrus, it’s probably best to leave her at home. Please don’t bring your dog to class when he’s sick. That won’t be any fun for him, and he might get the other dogs sick. Find out about attending a make up class together, or just come to class anyway without Fido. You’ll still get a lot out of class and be able to practice and keep up your dog up to speed.
• Supervise kids. I love it when kids in the family help to train the dog. I don’t love it though when people bring kids to class expecting the instructor to supervise them. If you bring kids to class, please keep an eye on them for their own safety, your own peace of mind, and to minimize disruptions.
• No retractable leashes. They’re bulky, cumbersome and difficult to manage while training your dog, especially for heeling and loose leash walking practice. Instead, use a  flat leash and collar.
• Speaking of collars, a regular flat collar is best for a positive training class. That means, no choke chains, prong, pinch or shock collars. Those devices rely on pain to control dogs, don’t teach dogs what you’d like them to do, and frequently lead to growling, lunging and barking when the poor dog’s on leash. I don’t know about you, but if someone put one of those things on me and started jerking and popping the leash while I was in it (a la Cesar Milan), I’d get growly in no time.
• Banish the cell phone. You’d be surprised how many times students have answered calls and then proceeded to have a full-on conversation in the middle of class. Please, silence cell phones before class. If you must take a call, step outside of class with your dog.
• Smart footwear. Here’s one I bet most folks don’t think about, but you should. Training classes include exercises that require movement and walking around, sometimes at a fast pace. Humans in training class find that their hands are very full during class time. They’re holding a leash, possibly a clicker, dispensing training treats, paying attention to what they’re doing and what their dogs are doing. Flip flops or high heels will make doing training exercises all the more challenging for humans. Your best bet for footwear is a pair that are comfy, with a flat stable no skid sole.
• Pay attention & listen. Need I say more?
• Be responsible for & monitor your dog at all times, especially if you’re in an off-leash class or puppy playgroup.
• Communicate. Does your dog have food allergies or dietary intolerances? Are you having trouble doing an exercise? Did you find the instructions confusing? Instructors try to have 360-degree vision in class, but we can’t notice everything all the time. So please, talk to your instructor. Ask questions.
• Practice, practice, practice. Dog training classes give you the tools to go home and practice you’re your dog. Dogs don’t generalize well, so if you want to really learn something, you’ll need to train him a lot outside of class. Typically, each class sessions builds on the things learned in the previous meeting. Practice between class sessions so you and your dog are ready to move on to whatever’s coming in the next meeting. Practice in as many settings as you can and at different times of day. Practice in short intervals; three to five minutes a few times a day is much more effective and fun for dogs (and humans) than long marathon sessions.

HAVE FUN!

“A rose is a rose is a rose,” wrote Gertrude Stein, but the same isn’t true for dog training classes.

There are classes just for pups, adolescents, or adults; in basic and advanced manners; to improve a particular skill like coming when called or loose leash walking; for shy or fearful dogs; for leash reactive dogs; specialty classes such as tricks, freestyle, agility, rally, nose work and treibball; and more!

With so many classes to choose from, how do you make sure a group training class is the right fit for your dog? Read on for some tips and important considerations.

• Is it a positive training class or an old-school punishment based class? Positive reinforcement training is the only humane effective way to train dogs. It includes reward-based training and clicker training. Punishment-based training relies on force, pain and intimidation to control behavior and may include leash pops, yelling, choke chains, prong and shock collars. Between the two there’s no contest. Positive training is the only way to go if you want your dog to learn most effectively, to enjoy training and to trust you. If you’re not sure what methods will be used, get in touch with the training school or instructor and ask. Better yet, ask to sit in on a class so you can see for yourself.


Off-Leash Puppy Class

• What’s the maximum class size? If you’re new to training, you may want to opt for a smaller class so you and your dog get more individualized attention. (One caveat: No one taking a group dog training class should expect exclusive attention from the instructor – heck, they’re called “group” classes for a reason.)
• What do you want Rover to get out of the class & what does the curriculum cover? This may seem obvious, but surprisingly often, people come to classes with inaccurate expectations about what their dogs will be learning. Class content varies a lot. Basic manners classes typically cover at least sit, down, stand, leash walking, recall (come when called) and stays. Advanced manners classes take these behaviors and more to the next level. Some puppy classes like those offered by Sirius, are held off-leash and include lots of puppy play, which is essential to teaching pups bite inhibition. Other puppy classes are held on-leash and may or may not include off-leash puppy play. Some classes build their curricula around what students most want to learn. Others have set curricula.
• What does Rover need to know before he can take the class? The answer is usually “nothing” for puppy classes, basic manners classes and nose work. Specialty classes like agility, freestyle (doggy dancing), and rally obedience typically require student-dogs to know some basics. Some advanced classes require that dogs have graduated from a particular class at a particular facility, e.g., Sirius Puppy 2 classes are typically open only to graduates of Sirius Puppy 1. If it’s been a long time since Rover practiced behaviors necessary to take the class, bone up with him well before the class starts so he can hit the ground running on Day 1 of class, rather than spend time reviewing and catching up.
• Is Rover fearful or shy? Some dogs are so anxious/fearful that group training classes aren’t for them. Depending on the severity of the dog’s fear, expecting her to train in a group setting is unrealistic and may be downright unfair and unkind. These poor critters are far too upset to eat or learn in a class setting. If your dog is very fearful, private positive training is your best option to help conquer her fears. Classes designed especially for fearful dogs are another option, provided the methods are positive reinforcement-based, and the dog’s fear is not too severe for the class.
• Is Rover leash reactive? Most group classes are conducted with dogs leashed most of the time. If your dog reacts poorly to the sight of other dogs or strangers when he’s on leash, a garden variety group training class isn’t right for him. Instead, enroll him in a special class designed to address this behavior. I’ve seen these classes listed as “Growly Dog”, “Reactive Rover,” and “Control Unleashed.”
• Does Rover display aggression? Dogs that behave aggressively towards strangers, other dogs, or who guard food, toys or owners from dogs or humans may not be suitable for a group class. A dog that barks and lunges at mail carriers but is otherwise comfortable with strangers may be fine in class. A dog that barks and lunges at all male strangers may not be OK in class. When in doubt, check with the instructor to see if the class can accommodate your dog’s behavioral issues.
• What are the general policies regarding student dogs? Most classes have specific policies about dogs that will be accepted. Policies typically address the dog’s age, required vaccinations, whether or not the dog has bitten and injured a human or another dog, and whether student dogs must be spayed or neutered. Informing yourself about these policies ahead of time is the best way to avoid surprises on the first day of class.

Next up, how to get the most out of your dog’s group training class.

I should have known better.

Yesterday was Vinnie’s and my first public freestyle performance. We danced in a group routine at a dog festival in a park, with a large audience of dogs and their people, including my husband a.k.a, Vinnie’s “Papa.” (Very corny, I know. But c’mon, I have a hunch you’ve dished up some corny talk to your dog.)

Back to the festival. As soon as we arrived, a little voice in my head said, Uh oh. Vinnie was very excited. He wanted to play off-leash with other dogs, to inhale the scent of grilling meat wafting about and hunt for dropped tidbits. He saw kids playing soccer and wanted to nab their ball. And he was hell-bent on keeping his group – me, him and his Papa – together. Rounding us up is something my dear Kelpie mix has always done, and more intently in new environments.

I’d agreed at the last minute to dance in the routine, and Vin and I’d been practicing our parts diligently. But that was mostly indoor practice at home, a familiar relatively distraction-free location. I’d come to the park ready with a large bag of chicken, which had never failed to help Vin’s focus and for which he’d danced eagerly the day before in the same park. But that was without barbecues, human food galore, scores of other dogs in the vicinity, and Papa at the ringside.

When it was our turn in the ring Vinnie’s performance fell apart. Instead of heeling and spinning next to me across the stage, he took off towards the gate, his eyes darting around for any sign of my husband. I quickly got Vin’s attention and he did most of his routine after that only to lose it again during his solo finale. Instead of trotting towards me and taking a bow, he spotted my husband and ran to the side of the ring to greet him.

Like I said, I of all people should have known there’s just no short cutting the training process. One essential key to effective training is to train gradually, making tasks more challenging for your dog one step at a time. It’s like training for a marathon; you don’t vault from jogging a mile a day to being able to run a 26-mile race.

It’s not surprising that Vinnie didn’t perform well. I rushed his training and neglected to set him up for success in several ways.

For one thing, dogs don’t generalize easily. It you want them to apply learning acquired in one context to another, you have to help them get there. If you only train “sits” in the kitchen, it will take a bit more training for the dog to learn that “sit” means the same thing in the living room, a yard, at the beach and on the sidewalk. Even though Vinnie had nailed the routine again and again at home, he’d only had one practice at the park and another in someone’s back yard. That wasn’t nearly enough to bet on a solid performance on the day of the show amidst a sea of distractions.

The world is a mighty distracting place!

For another thing, dogs are notoriously distractible. To get behavior around distractions, increase distraction levels incrementally. A dog who responds reliably to, “Let’s heel,” in your hallway may look as if he’s never heard the words the first several times you try heeling at the beach. Other dogs, new people, food, new smells and sounds are just some things most dogs find pretty darn enticing. Poor Vin was faced with multiple high level distractions at the same time. That together with insufficient practice to generalize was enough to doom his performance.

On top of all tha, Vin was grappling with a strong competing motivator. Most dogs love food and are very motivated to do stuff, training included, to get it. But a treat that keeps a dog’s attention on training when there’s nothing else going on may very likely pale in comparison to a chance for a squirrel chase, to romp with other dogs, or in Vinnie’s case, to round up his humans. On show day, Vinnie was highly motivated to keep his group together. While he was motivated at times to score chicken by doing parts of his routine, at other times the desire to find his dad won out.

Thankfully, the performance was just for fun. We all laughed about it. No harm was done except for a little bruise on my ego. And I’ll make sure not to repeat the same mistakes as we prepare for our next performance. Next time, we’ll both be ready!

Have you ever wondered just how far you could take your dog with positive reinforcement training? Can a clicker and some treats really teach your dog anything more interesting than sits, stays and downs?

The answer is a resounding yes. A clicker and some treats can take your dog further than you may have realized. In addition to the typical line-up of class offerings – puppy kindergarten, puppy intermediate, adolescent manners, basic manners – there’s a tantalizing selection of positive training classes, some all about having fun and some more serious.

Duke Shows Off A Trick

My Kelpie mix Vinnie and I’ve taken civilized canine classes, rally obedience, agility and our favorite, canine freestyle (or doggy dancing). All were taught using positive reinforcement methods and all the dogs learned new stuff. Like humans, some dogs learned more than others. That could have been due to any number of factors – clarity of instruction, the dogs’ learning styles, or the human guardian’s training skills, to name a few. The point is, all the doggies learned handy or fun behaviors in those classes.

One of my favorite videos of all time is of Carolyn Scott and her Golden Retriever Rookie doing canine freestyle to the song, “You’re the One that I Want,” from the movie/musical Grease. How do I know Rookie learned to dance through positive training? It’s written all over him. Throughout the 4-minute choreographed routine, that dog is bouncing and prancing with relaxed fluid movements and a huge doggy smile on his face. He’s totally engaged in what he’s doing. I can’t see inside his brain, but he sure looks like a dog who’s over the moon to be doing his routine.

All smiles in training class

That’s one beautiful side-effect of positive training. Because it rewards dogs for behaviors we want, it is by definition rewarding to dogs trained in this way. The dogs learn quickly that training means groovy stuff like food, playtime or lovies are on their way. Training is a happy event and naturally, these pooches are eager and excited to train! Of the many dogs I’ve trained, every one has really really liked or loved training.

If it’s been a while since your dog took a training class, consider enrolling in one soon. Aside from the types of classes mentioned here, there are positive classes for tricks, scent discrimination, flyball, fun and games, and real world adventures. A class is an excellent way to maintain/polish existing manners; great practice in getting him to focus on you around distractions (like other dogs and humans dispensing food); a nice infusion of mental stimulation into his doggy brain; and a chance for you to bone up on your training skills. A positive training class is also a perfect chance for you and your dog to have fun, improve your lines of communication, and bond even more deeply.

Check out champion freestylers Carolyn and Rookie’s Grease routine here!