January is National Train Your Dog month – a grand kick-off to another year with your best furry friend. If you haven’t heard, positive reinforcement training is one of the best ways to enhance your relationship with Rover.

Relationship: the way in which two or more concepts, objects or people are connected, or the state of being connected.

Some may think true relationships exist only between humans, but we do indeed have relationships with our dogs. Humans provide the things dogs need and want in life, and they depend on us to provide those things. Humans depend on dogs for all kinds of help: as flock guardians and herders on farms and ranches; as protectors of the home and family; as trackers and retrievers in the field; as our eyes, ears, and sometimes, our hands. We look to dogs for much of what we share with other humans – companionship, affection, friendship and a good laugh.

Positive training fosters relationships with dogs on a foundation of clear consistent communication, mutual respect and trust. Thankfully, that’s the kind of relationship I enjoy with my dog; I wouldn’t want it any other way.

When Vinnie first came into my life he was a sweet cuddly pup. Now, nearly 5 years later, he is sweeter, deeply bonded to me (and I to him) and even more affectionate. He trusts me completely. I see it in his eyes when he looks to me in new or uncertain situations. I know it when he leans his body into mine, when he passes by and licks my hand, when he nuzzles his face into my chest or shoulder and waits for me to pet him. Between us there’s a constant dialogue, mostly devoid of words but full of body language. I understand some of his body language, he understands a great deal more of mine, and we communicate very well most of the time. I’m still moved by all of this because his trust and our ability to communicate are things I earned in large part through positive training.

But aside from these warm fuzzies, why train/keep training your dog?

• Because they get rusty, just like we do.
• Because all dogs need mental stimulation every day, and training – practicing known stuff or learning new behaviors or tricks – is an easy way to provide mini mental workouts.
• Because it’s fun for you and your dog – if you’re using positive training that is!
• Because solid training spells more freedom in life for you and your dog, together.
• Because training prevents unwanted behavior and strengthens desirable behavior, which make for a happier more harmonious relationships between humans and dogs.
• Because too many dogs end up in shelters (or worse) every day for behaviors that could easily have been prevented or solved through positive training.
• Because positive training is the only way to fairly and effectively teach your dog how you’d like him to behave.
• Because, as expert trainer Ken Ramirez says, “Training is not a luxury, but a key component to good animal care….Training is about teaching a dog (or any animal) to live in our world safely.”

Need inspiration? Go to APDT’s National Train Your Dog Month website for training tips and links to free webinars and Facebook chats with dog training experts on a wide range of training and behavior issues, from how to teach kids to interact safely with dogs to housetraining issues to introducing dogs and cats safely. Check out the full schedule here and spread the word to anyone you know with a dog, or anyone thinking of adopting one.

Happy 2012 & Happy Training!

When Vinnie was an adolescent dog he began to counter surf in earnest. As soon as no one was looking, he’d rear up on his hind legs, put his front paws on the kitchen counter and start sniffing. Somehow he managed to jump and stretch his muzzle farther than we could imagine and in the blink of an eye, he’d help himself to food on the counter. He scored quite a few yummies in this way including a third of a freshly baked pan of cornbread, a handful of cookies, a few hunks of cheese, a piece of chicken, and a burger.

This has got to stop, I thought. But the first order of business wasn’t training. It was management.

Early attempts at counter surfing

Management, a cornerstone of just about every training or behavior modification plan I can think of, means taking steps to prevent the dog from doing the undesirable behavior while training is under way.

When dogs are rewarded for behavior, the behavior becomes stronger in intensity and frequency. In Vinnie’s case, counter surfing had paid off big time in the way of uber-delectable food rewards. The more he scored food from counters, the more likely he would be to raid them in the future. The best laid training plan would have been ineffective as long as he was still able to nab food from counters, even if only occasionally. Preventing him from getting food on counters went a long way to stopping the behavior because it ceased to be rewarding for him.

Here are some common examples of management as compared to training:

Cody loves to rush the front door when guest arrive and jump and slobber all over them.

• Management: Strategic placement of baby gates to prevent Cody from rushing the front door until his greeting manners improve.
• Training: Teach Cody to stay on a mat while guests arrive and enter the home, then to hand target guests to greet them.

Sylvie growls and snarls whenever Rex, the other family dog, approaches her when she’s gnawing on rawhides, bully sticks and bones.

• Management: Separate Sylvie from Rex in another room behind a closed door whenever it’s chewie time.
• Training: Desensitize & countercondition Sylvie to have a positive response to Rex’ approaches when she’s eating chewies or bones.

Fergus pulls nonstop whenever he goes for a leash walk.

• Management: Prevent Fergus from pulling on leash by walking him on a front-clip anti-pull harness.
• Training: Teach Fergus to heel and/or walk on a loose leash.

Vinnie counter surfs in the kitchen every chance he gets.

• Management: Never ever leave food on kitchen counters.
• Training: Teach him to stay on a mat when food’s being prepared and to get down from the counter when asked to do so.

Like good training, effective management requires consistency on the part of dog guardians. Lapses in management enable dogs to engage (again) in undesirable behavior and to self-reward for doing the behavior, which in turn makes the dog more likely to repeat it.

If your dog is doing something you don’t like, think first about how to change the environment to prevent him from engaging in the behavior. Once a solid management plan is in place, train him to do another acceptable behavior instead. When his manners have improved through training, it’s time to relax management.

Many people find that effective management works so well, they don’t do training to address the undesirable behavior. If that works for you and your dog, wonderful.

Chances are you’ve got one in your neighborhood – the backyard dog that seems to bark all day and night. There’s one down the street from me and another a couple of streets away. No matter when I walk by those houses the dogs are barking, one from a garage, the other from a backyard. Bad dogs? No. Bored dogs? Yes! . . and that’s just the tip of the iceberg.As a shelter worker I counseled many people who were considering adopting a dog. I always asked where the dog would be living most of the time. Most people said in the home, at which point I breathed a silent sigh of relief, and began discussing potty-training and house manners training.

Some people said they had garages or backyards that would make “great” homes for a dog, day and night. That answer prompted a different discussion – why backyard/garage living isn’t a good idea.

Dogs are tremendously social critters. That’s one reason they make such great pets and companions. Dogs don’t just like social interaction, they need it. Banishing them to an isolated existence in a backyard or garage is inhumane and bound to result in a cornucopia of unwanted behavior. Dogs living in isolation are lonely, sad, anxious, frustrated and bored out of their minds. When they are permitted to be around humans, the dogs so starved for companionship, their behavior’s out of control.

Dogs - an incredibly social species

Dogs who live in solitary don’t get training in house manners, or if they get it, don’t get a chance to practice those manners on a regular basis. As a result, if and when the dogs are allowed inside, they don’t do well and are again relegated to yard or garage.

It’s a vicious cycle. The dogs’ behavior justifies their banishment to the yard. The longer they live in the yard, the more desperate they are for attention and interaction. The more desperate they are, the worse they behave when around humans. The worse the dogs behave, the less the humans want them in the house.

Dogs in solitary confinement will very likely develop frustration and boredom-based problems such as digging; destructive chewing of outdoor furniture, decks, fences and siding; fence-fighting with people and animals passing by; and excessive barking and howling. Backyard dogs are also at risk for developing obsessive-compulsive behaviors like nonstop tail-chasing, shadow or light chasing, fly snapping, and self-mutilation. In addition, because they’re not around humans or other dogs, they’re often severely undersocialized to dogs, people and the sights and sounds of everyday human life. Undersocialization leads to fearful and aggressive behavior. All of this spells disaster for the dogs. They’re more likely to be surrendered to a shelter and to be euthanized.

Besides the ill effects on behavioral wellness, backyard dogs are at risk for health problems. Dogs may be too hot, too cold, wet with no place to dry out, dehydrated, dirty and matted, or attacked by wild animals. Small dogs have been attacked by raptors. Minor illnesses can become major before anyone notices.

What’s the solution?

• First and foremost, don’t get a dog if you don’t want or aren’t prepared for him to live inside with you.
• Dog need daily mental and physical exercise, and ongoing socialization and training. If you don’t have time for those things, get a low maintenance species of pet (like fish and some reptiles) instead of a dog.
• If you leave your dog outside while you’re at work, don’t tether or chain her up. Doing so severely restricts dogs’ movements and can cause neck injuries, strangulation, and anxiety or frustration-based behavior problems. The dog should have shelter from the elements, s warm dry place to sleep, safe chew toys, and lots of fresh water. The yard should be securely fenced – high enough that she can’t jump over the fence, and deep enough that she can’t dig under it. Opaque fencing reduces the chances of fence-fighting and barrier barking at other dogs and passersby. Bring her in when you come home and let her sleep inside at night. Make sure she gets daily walks and aerobic exercise.
• If you have a backyard/garage dog, you’re missing out on the many benefits of having a dog. Get to know your new best friend and roommate starting now! Move her inside and start a positive training program right away. It’s our responsibility to teach dogs how we want them to behave. Enroll in a basic obedience class or read one of the books suggested below. Be patient and set consistent limits. Don’t expect her to learn how to behave in a human home overnight.
• If you know someone with a backyard/garage dog, try to educate him/her about the dog’s sad predicament. Suggest a local positive training class or one of the books below. (All great reads, they’re loaded with useful information and clear instructions for training basic obedience and preventing and dealing with unwanted behavior.)

The Power of Positive Training, Pat B. Miller
How To Teach A New Dog Old Tricks, Dr. Ian Dunbar
Good Dog 101: Easy Lessons to Train Your Dog the Happy, Healthy Way, Christine Dahl

What do good manners and playing with your food have to do with one another?

Everything . . . if you’re a dog!

One of the best and easiest things you can do to enrich your dog’s life and lay a foundation for polite dog behavior is encourage him to play with his food. Food puzzle toys abound – nifty contraptions into which you stuff food or treats, and give to your dog to “solve” so he can eat what’s inside.

Kong, Tricky Treat Ball, Tug A Jug (L-R)

He might have to chew on the toy to get the food out (as in the case of Kongs and Busy Buddy toys); nose, bat and roll the toy around to get at the yummies inside (e.g., Buster Cubes, Tricky Treat Balls); manipulate puzzle pieces (Nina Ottoson’s interactive toys); or come up with a combination of moves to work the puzzle (e.g., Tug a Jug). The point is he’ll need to use his brain and sometimes his brawn to devise a winning strategy.

Feeding your dog from food puzzle toys has many advantages over bowl feeding. Working food puzzle toys:

• Is fun! Not every food puzzle toy is a hit with every dog, but with the wide variety of available toys there are sure to be a couple that get your dog’s groove on.
• Helps dogs eat more slowly than if they were gulping food from a bowl. Eating more slowly helps avoid bloat, a serious and often fatal ailment.
• Staves off boredom. Boredom breeds undesirable behavior like excessive barking, fence fighting and destructive chewing. Besides, living in a perpetually or mostly bored state must be a serious drag for a dog. Food puzzle toys gives dogs mini mental workouts and are a good antidote to boredom.
• Burns doggy energy. Don’t you wish you had your dog’s energy? Without daily outlets for that energy, dogs find other things to do with it. All too often, those things are activities humans don’t appreciate. Interactive toys provide outlets for some of dogs’ mental and physical energy.
• Satisfies the urge and need to chew. Many interactive toys require chewing action to get the food out. Chewing keeps teeth, gums and jaw muscles healthy and is a natural behavior that many dogs really love, especially pups and adolescents. Directing dogs towards acceptable chewies – like food puzzle toys – is essential when teaching dogs to keep their teeth off of your stuff.

If your dog is already a food puzzle wiz, mix up the types of puzzle toys he plays with. Some puzzle toys (like Kongs) can be frozen after stuffing to make solving them tougher for dogs ready for more of a challenge.

Get creative with food stuffings. You can layer different ingredients; alternate wet food with dry; mix wet food with dry dog food before stuffing the toy; or mix an extra special treat with the rest of the food (like the prize in the cereal box).

Does your dog have a favorite food puzzle toy? Do you have a favorite “recipe” for food puzzle toy stuffings? Please feel free to share in a comment.

If I let my dog on the furniture or sleep on my bed, he’ll think he’s dominant over me.

I’m sounding the Mutt Myth Alert!! Let’s bust this myth one piece at a time.

First, no one can look inside a dog’s head and read his thoughts. My dog Vinnie sometimes sleeps in my bed. When he’s snoozing there he looks peaceful and comfortable, but I have no idea what he’s thinking. Neither does anyone else.

“Dominance” is a term that’s misunderstood, misinterpreted and misused rampantly in discussions of dog behavior. In ethology (the scientific study of behavior), dominance refers to “priority access to a limited resource,” and is dependent on context and the distribution of resources. This is not what most people have in mind when they say their dogs are trying to dominate them.

In my experience, what folks usually mean when they say their dogs are trying to dominate them, is, Fido isn’t doing what I want him to do, or, If I let Fido do X, he’ll try to control me.

Let’s take a common sense look at this notion of “dominance as control.” As expert dog trainer and founder of the SF-SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers Jean Donaldson points out, humans control everything dogs need and want in life – food, water, playtime, walks, medical care, companionship, affection, access to other dogs, shelter, sleeping spots, and ultimately, life and death. Given that, who’s dominating whom? Who’s really in control? Here’s a hint – it’s not the dogs.

Though we can’t read dogs’ minds, we can observe their behavior. What’s more, we can manipulate the environment, resources, and consequences to get dogs to behave in ways we like and want to see more of. Simply put, dogs can be trained, undesirable behaviors can be changed, and at the end of the day, much of our dogs’ behavior is up to us.

Sleeping on a human bed is surely far more comfortable than sleeping in a crate or on the floor. When Vin lounges on my bed, he’s rewarded immediately by softness and comfort. Because sleeping on the bed is inherently rewarding to him, every nap on the bed sets him up to nap on the bed more frequently in the future.

There’s no scientific evidence showing that bed snoozes will make Vinnie want to control me, nor that they cause dogs to behave badly. Dogs do behaviors that work to get them what they want. I’d bet lots of money that Vinnie likes sleeping on the bed because it feels good.

Even if he secretly wants to be my boss, the reality is that he’s only allowed on the bed if it’s OK with the humans in the home. Each dog guardian gets to decide what behavior is acceptable from her dog. Some people don’t care if their dogs pull on leash. Others don’t mind if their dogs beg under the table during dinner. I don’t mind if Vinnie sleeps on my bed; in fact, I like it.

Comfy or trying to seize control?

If I were to decide that Vinnie could never again be on the bed, I could implement that change easily. I’d manage the environment to prevent him from getting on the bed – i.e., keep the bedroom door closed or install a baby gate across the door.

I’d also make his sleeping spot more attractive and comfortable. I could put blankets and a crate pad in his crate, or get him a nice plush dog bed.

He’s already trained to get off of beds and furniture when we ask him to, so if I were to find him on my bed, I’d ask him to get down and direct him to his comfy crate/dog bed.

With consistent practice, he’d learn that whenever he gets on the bed I’m going to ask him to get off and go to his own bed. Dogs are economical in how they spend their energies and creatures of habit; in time, he’d stop getting on the bed as often and instead, go to his own bed.

I suppose Vinnie could be plotting to dominate me. He’s a clever guy. When he wants to play tug, he brings his toy to me, drops it rather dramatically at my feet, and sits there and stares at me for a while. If I look at him, he picks up the tug toy and tries to put it in my lap. Sometimes after all that, I get up and play tug with him, but that’s when I feel like it, when I have the time and the energy, and according to my rules. When we’re finished, he likes to go to my bed and take a nap. I see him, smile, and think he looks adorable.

* * *

IMPORTANT NOTE: Some dogs behave possessively around furniture and sleeping locations. This sort of behavior, known as resource guarding, is normal dog behavior, and doesn’t arise from letting dogs sleep on beds. It’s a common behavior that many dogs come pre-programmed with and is an advantage in the wild. Dogs that guard food, sleeping locations, and other resources have a better shot at surviving. Resource guarding presents safety risks for humans; fortunately, it’s a behavior that can be changed through positive training. If your dog growls/behaves aggressively when you approach him when he’s on the bed, on other furniture, or when he’s eating or playing with toys, punishing or trying to “show him who’s boss” is dangerous and will make his behavior worse. Instead, consult with a good positive reinforcement trainer as soon as possible.

It took me a LONG time, much diligent training and careful management to teach my Kelpie mix Vinnie not to chase my cat Ted, and to get a tug toy instead when he gets the cat-chasing urge. We enjoyed a lengthy stretch of peace at home; dog and cat could both chill out in the same room in close proximity to one another without problems.

Vin Settled With Ted Nearby

I was overjoyed. There’s almost nothing I like better than the company of both my critters at the same time. And the dog-cat harmony at home was no small achievement. Vinnie is a herding mix with high energy and an intense desire to herd moving critters.

But that was then.

Lately Vinnie starts whining in frustration and his eyes light up in that, “I’m dying to chase you now!” way whenever he sees Ted. Vinnie has also taken to following Ted so closely, he’s practically standing on top of him. Ted is not amused.

At first I was puzzled about the change in Vin’s behavior. Then I remembered that of late, our garden has been overrun with feral cats. There always seems to be at least one feral kitty lurking in the shadows. (I don’t leave food or garbage out there. A well-meaning neighbor has been feeding the ferals daily and ever since, the surrounding yards have become a feline playground.)

No wonder Vin’s interest in Ted has revived. Vinnie’s had plenty of recent opportunity to chase the feral cats outside. And chase them he does!

For Vinnie, chasing cats is a self-reinforcing behavior. Chasing cats is tons of fun for him. He’s rewarded powerfully whenever he does it; chasing and herding cats must feel incredible to him. Herding is after all, what he’s hard-wired to do.

Animals aren’t static entities or robots. They’re living organic creatures who respond and react to their environments. In other words,behavior changes. It can change for a host reasons such as an illness, a health problem, or as a result of natural development and maturing (transitions from puppyhood to adolescence to adulthood to the golden years).

Ted

Behavior can also change as a result of environmental factors. These run the gamut and include changes in diet, in amounts and types of exercise and mental stimulation, in life routines, a move to a new home, the addition of a new pet or family member, or the death of a loved one to name a few.

Vinnie’s in perfect health and the only recent change in his life has been the feral festival in our yard and the many opportunities he’s seized to chase those cats. Behavior that’s rewarded increases in intensity and frequency. The more Vinnie chases cats — a rewarding behavior to him — the more he wants to chase cats, and the more he wants to chase cats, the more he chases them. This explains his changed behavior and attitude towards Ted.

One of my instructors at the SF-SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers always said, “If you want the animal to change its behavior, change your behavior.” So true.

If I want to curb Vinnie’s desire to chase Ted, I need to change my behavior. Relying on my pre-feral cat training plan won’t suffice. I need to manage the environment to prevent Vin from chasing the outdoor kitties.

I can’t block them from my yard and it doesn’t seem fair to suspend Vin’s yard privileges. My management plan is to go outside and get any feral cats to skedaddle before Vinnie is allowed into the yard. I also need to ramp up the training – more recall and leave it practice away from Ted, lots of practice calling Vinnie to come inside from the back yard, and stupendous rewards for those behaviors.

If your dog’s behavior has changed suddenly and it’s not to your liking, try to figure out what may have caused the change. If it’s not due to maturing, rule out any physical problems with a vet exam.

If there are no health issues, consider whether there have been any changes in your dog’s life or routine. If he’s been getting less physical or mental exercise, increase it. If the environment has changed, depending on what’s changed and how intensely it’s affected your dog, he may just need some time to adjust.

If you’re concerned and/or your dog’s behavior doesn’t improve, it’s best not to let the undesirable behavior continue as it will most likely worsen.

Do your best to prevent your dog from doing the behavior and consult with a good positive reinforcement trainer. Deciphering behavior puzzles and crafting a plan to address them is what dog trainer geeks like me relish.

As you can see from my scant February blog posts, last month was a whirlwind for me. I’ve had zero time to write and have really missed blogging. This post is a quick one but a good one.

When it comes to training dogs, it seems like everyone’s got an opinion about how to do it the right way. Visit a dog park and mention a dog training or behavior issue and it won’t be long before someone’s giving you advice. Google “dog training tips” and in milliseconds you’ll get over 15 million results that are just a few mouse clicks away.

But whose advice should you follow? What tips are worthwhile?

As is the case with much of the data on the web, it can be daunting to parse out what’s the best most accurate information about dog training and what isn’t. Instead of spending your time plowing through website after website, here’s a tip on finding trustworthy positive reinforcement training information:

One of my favorite web-based resources for excellent information about puppy raising, dog training and dog behavior is www.DogStarDaily.com. And guess what? It’s free.

At the risk of sounding like a commercial, I must give Dog Star Daily it’s due. Whether you’re looking for the lowdown on exactly what’s involved in raising a puppy, or what to expect from your adolescent dog, or how to potty train a pup using positive reinforcment, Dog Star Daily has answers. The site’s “Training Textbook” covers scores of useful topics such as what you need to know before you adopt a puppy, how to puppy-proof your home, how to train your adolescent dog, how to train basic manners, and common behavior issues and what to do about them. Dog Star Daily’s information is spot-on and presented in a clear easy-to-follow format.

Dog Star Daily is one of the resources I recommend regularly to clients and students in group dog training classes. Check it out today.

In honor of National Train Your Dog Month, I’ll be posting as many fun and easy training tips as I can throughout January. Welcome to the inaugural post.

“Sammy pays attention to me when we’re inside, but as soon as we go outside, he’s all over the place. He acts like I don’t even exist.”

Although this may sound like a lover’s complaint, it isn’t. It’s something many dog guardians say as they lament the fact that outdoors, it’s difficult to get their dogs’ attention.

This makes perfect sense from Sammy’s point of view. Dogs by nature are extremely impulsive creatures. Many dogs are very inquisitive. Puppies, adolescents and young adult dogs love to explore and investigate and are notoriously easy to distract. Home is a familiar place filled with sights, smells, sounds and people the dogs encounter every day and know well. As environments go, home isn’t very distracting to dogs — that’s why training at home is the best and easiest place to begin teaching dogs new behaviors. Confined to a familiar location with few to no distractions, most dogs pay great attention to their people.

Step outdoors and it’s a different story. Just think of all the wonderful stuff there is out there to grab a dog’s attention! Bushes and hydrants, trees and sidewalks, trails and beaches are all filled with exciting things and scents to sniff out, mark, roll in or dig at. Birds, squirrels, gophers and other wild creatures beg to be chased. Humans roam around exclaiming over Sammy’s cuteness and wanting (naturally!) to pet and coo over him. Other humans carry delectable edibles about or have the nerve to eat full meals in sidewalk cafes right in front of Sammy. Dogs galore pass by or frolic off leash inviting Sammy to join in the fun.

All of that spells distraction with a capital D. The world outside your front door is crammed with one amazing distraction after another as far as Sammy’s concerned. Whenever you’re outside, you’re competing with everything else that’s going on for your dog’s attention. As much as our dogs love us, when they’re out in the world they’re bombarded with enticing things that cry out for investigation. Given that dogs are so impulsive, those things often claim dogs’ attention immediately.

Fortunately you can easily click your way to getting better attention from your dog outdoors and in other distracting places. By rewarding your dog for paying attention to you outside and around distractions, you teach him that focusing on you is fabulous for him no matter where you are. The more you reward him for attending to you outdoors, the more he will repeat the behavior.

Like training any other behavior, you need to train better attention and focus gradually and incrementally, making sure to reward your dog at every step of the way. When training outdoors, use treats your dog loves, instead of treats he just likes. Why? Sniffing and digging and investigating and playing outside are activities that are highly rewarding to your dog. If you want him to come away from butterflies, pinecones and other dogs to check in with you, make it worth his while to do so. As rewards go, kibble, a hard dog biscuit and/or praise don’t even come close to a dog’s delight when playing with other dogs or sniffing a gopher hole. However, rewarding your dog with spectacular yummies for paying attention to you around distractions makes that behavior highly rewarding to him and means he’s much more likely to repeat that behavior.

I especially like using the clicker for this training because it enables you to mark precise behavior the moment your dog does it, and because dogs can usually hear the clicker in noisy places and at a distance.

If your dog is clicker trained, try this easy exercise. Take him outside on leash to a familiar spot that’s more distracting than your home. Your yard or the sidewalk/street in front of your home are good places to start. Take your clicker and some really yummy treats your dog loves. Doing this training when your dog is hungry will make him more motivated to play the training game.

Stay in one spot the first time you try this and observe your dog closely. The moment he turns his head in your direction, click and then treat. Keep clicking and treating every time he turns his head towards you. Once he figures out that the head turn is earning the reward, he’ll do it more often.

With consistent training, head turns will become deliberate looks at you and later, your dog will most likely begin approaching you to claim the reward for his hard work. That’s progress! Click and treat those behaviors when they occur. They show that your dog is focusing on you more intently.

When distractions like cyclists, other dogs or people pass by, reward the heck out of head turns, looks at you or approaches towards you. Give him lots of treats and praise for focusing on you around distractions. That’s hard work for a dog! You can prompt him to look at you as distractions approach by saying his name in a happy upbeat voice, making kissy noises or doing lots of jolly talk.

Keep training sessions short — about 3-5 minutes at a time — and train in different outdoor locations. Gradually increase the distraction levels so your dog doesn’t get frustrated and doesn’t give up on training. When you first try the exercise off-leash, practice in a familiar spot at an off-peak low activity time.

A wonderful recipe for teaching your dog to respond to you outdoors is a combination of the above exercises, training a strong recall and “leave it” behavior. When your dog is an expert at paying attention and responding to you outdoors, remember to reward him randomly for doing so. Random rewards will maintain a learned behavior and ensure that it doesn’t disappear.

Do you need an excuse to play? Many humans probably do. In this age of constantly-evolving technology we’re expected to do more and more in less and less time. Sometimes just scanning my Monday to-do list leaves me feeling somewhat overwhelmed.

Unlike many of us dogs need no excuses to play. Dogs love to play. They may not all enjoy playing the same games or with the same toys. But where there’s a dog, there’s very likely some kind of playing to be done and much fun to be had.

Scientists are still trying to figure out why animals play. Theories include practicing survival skills, and learning and maintaining important social skills. If you’ve watched dogs playing with other dogs or people, it may have occurred to you that perhaps one reason dogs play is to have fun. They certainly appear to be having plenty of fun when they’re at it.

If you have a dog you also have a perfect “excuse” to play. Playing with your dog yields wonderful benefits. It provides your dog with mental stimulation, an essential daily requirement for a healthy happy dog. Some games (like fetch and tug) afford your dog a chance to exercise, another daily necessity that too many dogs get too little of. Exercise keeps doggy bodies in good shape, avoids obesity and its attendant health risks, gives your dog an appropriate outlet for his energy and helps ward off behavioral issues. Depending on the game, dog play means you get some exercise too. My dog Vinnie adores playing one-on-one soccer with my husband; whenever they play they both get a great workout.

Playtime offers up lots of little training moments that help dogs practice impulse control. Play is an excellent stress reliever for humans and dogs. Play can be an especially effective way of building a shy, fearful or anxious dog’s confidence.

Doggy soccer anyone?

Perhaps best of all, playing with your dog regularly strengthens your relationship with him. Sharing enjoyable activities is one way in which people bond. Studies have shown that couples that play together enjoy longer happier relationships than those that don’t play together. As a therapist friend explained to me, doing fun things with a friend or significant other puts deposits into the emotional intimacy bank. You feel closer and happier when you’re doing having fun together.

Playing games with your best canine bud involves doing an activity together in which you communicate, work cooperatively and develop mutual understanding — all hallmarks of good social relationships. So is fun. Whether you’re playing tug, Frisbee, hide and seek, Freeze and Go Wild, or another game you or your dog has invented, hopefully you’re both having fun. (Part of the fun for me is seeing how much my dog’s enjoying himself when he’s playing!)

Life is tough. We could all use a healthy dose of frivolity and fun. So go ahead. You don’t need any excuses. Play with your dog! Play with him regularly, safely and have loads of fun. If anyone scoffs, remember that play’s underrated. You’re doing something fabulous for yourself and your dog, and deepening your relationship while you’re at it.

Do you have favorite games you play with your dog? We’d love to read about them in a comment.

The other day I told the kids in my humane education class that they’re not just training shelter dogs, they’re saving lives. At first blush, that may sound like an outlandish claim. On closer examination, it really is true.

One of the primary reasons dogs are relinquished to shelters is due to behavioral issues that could easily have been prevented or curbed with positive training. Behaviors like jumping up that were seen as cute when the dog was a puppy become an annoyance when the dog becomes a bigger stronger adult. Problem behaviors are often punished making them worse, or overlooked until they become extreme and harder to modify.

Many guardians with a poorly-behaved untrained dog throw their hands in the air out of frustration. Many give up on their dogs altogether and surrender them to shelters. Once in a shelter, a dog’s future prospects are far from rosy. Given the severe pet overpopulation problem, current economic realities, and the common mentality that shelter dogs are “defective,” shelter dogs have a slim chance of adoption and a high chance of being euthanized.

However, dogs that are well-trained in polite manners have a much greater chance of staying in their homes. The same is true for dogs whose undesirable behaviors have been modified with positive reward-based training.

The best strategy for dogs and their guardians is a positive proactive one. If you have a newly adopted puppy or adult dog, start him off on the right paw by training him to behave in ways that you like. Dogs are creatures of habit. It’s far easier to teach a dog to behave politely from the outset of your lives together than to correct bad habits in full bloom. Even if your dog hasn’t had much or any training it’s never too late to start.

If you suspect your dog has or may be developing problem behavior, address it as soon as you can through positive training. Fearful or aggressive behaviors most often arise from underlying fear and/or stress and/or anxiety. If left unchecked or if punished, the dog’s fears/stress/anxiety worsen and so does the resultant behavior. This poses a danger for humans interacting with the dog, and ultimately the dog himself who may well find himself in a shelter or at the wrong end of a needle.

By training shelter dogs, the kids in my humane education class are doing so much more than training. They’re giving the dogs a leg up on adoption, improving their chances of staying in their eventual new homes, and giving the dogs a real second chance at a happy life, one click at a time.

Being proactive about your dog’s training and behavior may feel like a pain in our overly-busy lives. But a proactive approach is an investment that yields fabulous long-term results. A few minutes of positive training every day improves your dog’s quality of life, his happiness and your own, and may make all the difference between a future without your dog and forever future for you and him, together. When you think of it that way, training’s more than worth the effort.